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MommyLiberty5013

Brass vs. nickeled plated brass

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I heard that full brass casings are best in handguns (they are gentler on the insides of it over time). And to avoid steel casings. But I have an opportunity to buy 1000 rounds of nickel plated brass new police issued 147gr hp. 9mm.

 

Should I pass on this buying opportunity or go for it?

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If it's a good deal for you price wise in your area, just buy it.

Nickel plated brass cases would not hurt your firearm.

Brass cases do tarnish over time, when stored.

Nickel plated cases will hold better when stored over a long period of time.

Store your ammo in ammo cans with a rubber seal & in a cool dry area always.

That's what I do.

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 MommyLiberty nickel is slicker and drags less slightly more resistant to corrosion BUT if it is left in a damp or wet place unprotected ( now who in the world would do that) once it starts corroding its pretty useless.

 

actually brass is fine I use it just because that is what the brand I use comes in but as with all ammo clean dry storage like in a ammo can

 

Steel cases if they were bad why does 3/4 of the world use them ? most all Chinese and Russian ammo are steel cased and have been for decades.

by the time the steel cases would harm the weapon the weapon would have no rifling in the barrel anyway.

Have you seen some of those Afghan rifles no blue bare metal highly altered because they are worn out but can still hit a person at 100 yards.

 

Any ammo that is consistent and shoots to point of aim is "GOOD" no matter what it is made of,  if it does not perform it is "CRAP"

 

Today some NEW  rifle ammo is actually reduced power / loadings  now that really screws up your scope zero shooting out beyond 100 yards

or if you have standard loaded rounds.

 

The differences in loading is kinda obvious hot rounds or lighter bullets  shoot lower reduced rounds or heavy bullet shoot higher faster less effect from recoil slower more effect from recoil PLEASE other readers I do not want a bunch of crap on this I do not want to post a dissertation on ballistics this is a simple answer.

 

Now as to 9MM 147 grain a look on the Internet for the brand, type bullet and any other info you can get and look up the ballistics and compare them to other brands I am guessing it is either Speer or Federal ammo ( just guessing)

As far as 9MM 147 grain it is a good choice does not shoot as flat but most people cannot shoot past 50 yards with a handgun anyway,

Remember nothing for nothing for every gain there is a loss 147 grain puts a lot more energy on target than 115 grains.

It is all in your situation and for most 147 grain is good just remember a 9MM is a basically a 38 special +P as long as you know what is is capable of or it's limitations you will not get in over your head like jumping out in front of a tank or leaving cover to assault a brick building.

 

Bottom line once your acquainted with how it shoots you should have no problem keeping them in the 10 ring.

 

9MM is my favorite only because it is a nato as well as our military round people are yaking about us going back to 45 or some other round maybe Special forces but I think 9MM is going to be with us for many years to come and that makes it a good TEOTWAWKI caliber.

 

Brand is important some are more consistent just know if that bullet works for your pistol some do not like certain bullet designs.

there are some fantastic foreign brands of ammo but search out any information first.

 

I have known of agencies that sell off STUFF once it reaches an expiration date "THEIRS" it has nothing to do with if it is still effective and I have some ammo 30 years old that is as good or better than what is available today.

That is why it is important to test fire a box of the same brand as far as where your sights align that can be adjusted just shoot to the same point each shot to see if it prints a group if you keep adjusting your aim your just chasing bullet holes.

Not all this information is for you as others read our posts MommyLiberty.

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I've never had a problem with any new once loaded case material. Brass, nickle plated  brass, steel or even the blazer aluminum seems to work fine as long as it is clean and not corroded. I personally prefer just plain brass because I am a reloader. You don't/can't reload steel or aluminum. Steel is used because it is cheap and is usually also primed with a berdan primer because it is a little cheaper as well. Berdan primers are not practical to reload and so are once and done no matter what the case material. In the past a lot of the older surplus ammo was corrosive and required a thorough cleaning after every shooting session. That is becoming rarer now days. 

 

Nickle plate doesn't show corrosion and looked better in the old days in belt loops where brass would turn green. I suspect it is still used as more of a STYLE statement than as any practical improvement over just plain brass. I've shot and reloaded both thousands of times and never actually found any actual functional difference. Most 357 mag brass is nickle plated but the best brass that I've ever used was some Midway yellow brass that I bought just for reloading. Since it was new I used it for HOT loads!!! and the Nickle was used more for practice and target loads.

 

If the price is right Mom GO FOR IT. The case color is irrelevant. . 

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Mom

See above posts. IF, the price is great, go for it, if not, take a pass. Let PRICE determine your needs. I reload my own

at the rate of several thousand hand gun rounds per year, I always use a mix of brass and nickel plated.I just clean them

well and am anal or obsessive compulsive with my handgun and brass(all brass) cleaning. It's what I choose to do.

As for the 147 grain JHP 9mm loads, I've never known of a single suspect to

"notice" what they were shot with with. For 9mm I personally prefer the 115 grain or 124 grain JHP loads for MY personal

defense needs. I have several shorter barrel 9mm pistols and appreciate the ballistics that the lighter weight rounds give

me performance wise. That being said, I also do NOT lose any sleep being concerned about quality commercial loadings

in the defense or JHP 9mm loads. What you got, is what you will use.

Now, as I've mentioned before, for straight off-the-shelf loads, my personal standard pressure favorites are

winchester Western (in the white box, hence the " white box" moniker) in 115 JHP. It is the EXACT SAME LOAD FROM WINCHESTER

FOR THEIR SILVERTIPJHP loads, only NOT in the "fancy marketing hype" designer label and different color jacket. THERE IS NO

BALLISTIC DIFFERENCE between those two rounds. Out of a Glock 26, Glock 19, Browning High Power, (all three I have and use

those W-W white box 115 JHP will be MORE than adequate for ANY self defense needs you and the fam will ever need.

In these "interesting" economic times, feel free to shop based on PRICE, for long term and storage needs.

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I think nickel was more for revolvers it was hard coating so the case expanded less hard and slick helped in ejection of cartridges in a revolver or a single shot or double rifle. today it is for aesthetics I guess.

 

I have reloaded a lot of it and it is easier but if you crunch one it is junk a minor crunch on a brass case and sometimes you can salvage it.

 

I look at 9MM brass as expendable it flies like crap out of a hose and if your moving well it takes a forensics crew with a metal detector to find it all.

shell casings last a long time in the weather so gather clean and cull found cases saves a lot of money and most pistol can be loaded 6 to 10 times or more.

Survival reloading you can keep cutting a split case back and use the data for the shorter case instead of 18 spl you use 38 S&W this only works in revolvers or some rifle / flanged straight wall cases as well as all brass shotgun shells.

People that do alot of reloading will understand .

 

I may as well put it in here but the difference between boxer and berdan priming BOXER has a single flash hole the primer has a anvil in the cup.

 

BERDAN has 2 flash holes and a internal anvil made into the shell case the primers are difficult to remove over Boxer type.

 

So if you look into the case and it has 2 holes I scrap it as well if it is steel or aluminum and keep the Boxer in nickel and brass for reloading or trading

even if you do not reload others do and will buy it check the net for going price and I sell it for less as I want the money for more toys.

 

I used to sort a 55 gallon drum every couple of days once I got a 30 gallon drum of scrap aluminum or steel cases I would scrap them

same with crunched brass or nickel some yards want them separate but pay a good rate for it.

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I've reloaded 9mm & 45acp aluminum cases 2-3 times, they worked just fine.

Look for hair line cracks & rub your finger nail around the rim case.

If your nail gets caught in the outer rim casing, just toss it out for garbage.

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