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bob leeper

sling hardware for rifles

9 posts in this topic

ive been looking to put a sling on two rifles and the problem is the cheap little metal/ plastic swivel

parts break easily... and make carrying the rifle a hazard .. anyone got any solutions to this problem ?? fixes? advice? thanks in advance

juzcallmesnake likes this

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Good to read you / see you ? LOL

 

Uncle mikes and grove tech for the swivel and stock screws otherwise I have had to look for strap hardware on ebay and change out any plastic ware on a sling.

I find these at Brownells Midway and other such suppliers

 

I have used chicago screws take an ice pick heat it and push through nylon webbing melt the hole so it does not unravel and screw it together.

same for keepers in some instances you want to screw the keeper / guide to the strap I also use blue loctite to keep the screws from coming loose.

 

as far as padding I like sheeps skin wool on,  Tandy leather has it can be dyed to suit I am all into comfort dragging anything for miles is a pain.

 

I have bought and used continuous double hole belts and using chicago screws made my own 2 inch wide strap the tips have to be trimmed to fit the swivel.

 

Tandy leather sells leather strap buckles and hardware some custom leather designs require stitching a palm stitcher or a stitching awl.

 

Now I just buy strap nylon webbing in the width and thickness I want localy is you have a chainsaw / mower supply they may have this as tree removers

and landscapers use this they also carry para cord and rope carabiners etc.

TPSnodgrass likes this

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What Snake said, I have had EXCELLENT experience with hard use in UNcle Mike's stuff, never had it go down .......YET!(hope I didn't just jinx myself.)

Also, look at paracord. I have my 12 year old grandson braiding me a NICE paracord sling with Uncle Mike's swivels for one of my rifles.He's GOT manual dexterity, I may hove to go to "velcro" shoes...since it's getting harder to tie my own shoes/boots.

juzcallmesnake likes this

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Since I did not want to start a new thread I will place these thoughts here.

 

Most New rifles have most of these incorporated read up to insure your getting your moneys worth as some have a dear price and if that does not include accurizing or at least some of these options I would look intensely at Internet individual persons reviews before I laid down my money.

 

If your rifle can produce a 1 1/2 inch group @ 100 yards by a competent shooter I would not do much more than the basics speed kit and trigger IMO.

Many are buying inexpensive military rifles if you want to wring more accuracy out of it some tips are as follows.

Any rifle needs a few tweaks for optimal performance and increased durability. 

 

look up increasing stock wrist strength, I there is a midway video on youtube.

 

Drill and tap for scope base / bases there are smithless bases but most are less than solid or require extended  eye relief scope.

there are stocks with built in scope rail I think they are fugly but that is in the eye of the beholder.

 

At the same time your doing this look at glass bedding the action (maybe pillar bedding)  free floating the barrel.

Not something a novice should do you could mechanically lock the stock to the action PERMANENTLY not a good thing.

 

Another is to get a Timney trigger or a bold trigger and replace any 2 stage military trigger or a trigger that is heavy.

 

A Speed kit consisting of a new firing pin spring and Titanium alloy firing pin for Faster lock times that it helps a great deal in accuracy.

 

I like to exchange standard slot  stock bolts for hex head it is good to have the wrench in the butt of the stock as well as a few parts like an extractor maybe some scope base and ring wrench for those screws.

 

if you have the coins a laminated or synthetic stock if the company offers it a crossbolt is worth the money.in some actions pillar bedding is all that is available / possible.

 

As was posted a rifle without a sling is awkward to carry all day so look for sling hardware and youtube has videos on how to do this without splitting the stock.

 

I am not a Picatinny rail guy I rather use a Redfield or Leopold base and proper height rings.

I do not laser sight I rather use standard bore sight method and that generally get you on paper if you cannot hit at 100 yards you can sight in at 25 once you get it dead on then go and fine tune at 100 yards.

 

 

All this takes all the possible variances that effect accuracy, one that is over looked is stock bolt torque it need to be consistent and it does change in each rifle,  Stock bolt torque is measured in INCH pounds 35 to 65 inch pounds, these numbers are general and depend on wood synthetic and action bedding or what the rifle likes.

 

One other consideration like breaking in a engine a NEW  rifle barrel needs the same attention look up break in recommendations.

Some require a new barrel needs to have 5 shots swabbed with barrel cleaner and swabbed dry between each shot and then fire 45 shots and clean until bore swab comes out clean now you can bore sight as now you have a seasoned barrel.

The thinner the barrel the faster it will heat up and change the harmonics so allow to cool for 5 + minutes between shots heavier barrels can fire more shots before the heat alters harmonics.

 

If you would like to see effects of heat on your rifle first you need to be a accurate shooter but as fast as you can fire 20 shots and you will notice a question mark or a splattering of your group.

If you want to go extreme you can have your barrel cryo treated this is placing a barrel in liquid nitrogen for a period of time there has been a lot of chatter enough to make me opt not to bother with this a good barrel (maker )  has during the process of manufacture has stress relived the steel enough air gaged and know what they are doing to give me a sense if I do my part it should shoot to point of aim.

 

The increase in reported accuracy or increased barrel life is not specific enough for me to go that extra mile or strain my checkbook IMHO.

I am also not a fan of coated bullets as I have fired enough without coatings or barrel treatments to alter my willingness to to go through all the added cost and trouble over well made factory ammo IMHO.

wally likes this

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Here is a good project for a BUGOUT rifle finding a buttplate with a trap door that will fit your rifle or you may need to adapt one from an AR-15, 

98 Mauser, M-14, 03-A3 and a few others.

 

I see no reason for a butt "PAD" for a rifle that puts out less than 20 pounds of recoil, and also may depend on stock design a straighter stock give more felt recoil.

 

From here on it is straight forward try to fit the butt plate to your stock it is better to dry fit check and mark screw holes drill for butt plate screws

fit it to stock and then scribe and grind in to proper size OFF THE STOCK mark the door area and drill to depth it can be lager than the door but do not weaken the butt too much or where the butt plate screws are.

the hole can be elongated 2 or 3 holes together and using a rasp if you want to blend it or you can leave it as is.

 

The Idea is to have a pocket in your rifle for numerous possibles, I like a bore snake mini bottle of oil you will have to cut it but a tooth brush type brush

metal or nylon specific Allen wrenches usually you only need the stock bolts and scope base and ring size so 2 or 3 wrenches.

A few extra screws or springs if you see the need its your backup kit smaller diameter holes long enough for a firing pin or extractor ?

ferro rod / striker and a Swiss army knife from a classic to whatever you think you need.

 

Some rifles are not too easy to do this in this case insure that your butt plate screws are not frozen to where they cannot be removed / loosen them up a bit now you can remove it bore your butt stock and put in your kit and place the butt plate back on and you have your clean and repair kit  on board.

Or just use it for ammo just remember oil or wood can effect brass / ammo so just make sure it is a safe harbor for what you decide to store.

 

 

I like to wrap each piece in some TEE Shirt cloth to protect from scratching and to have bore patches

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I was drifting on the web and found a site about rifle slings and after a bit I was annoyed these pansies are promoting a camp perry hold with a sling what nit wit would release the lower sling spread the upper sling twist it place your entire arm into the loop with a twist and then mount the rifle pull in suck in tuck in it is like a choreographed off Broadway musical,  Egad what a bunch of crap !

A sling properly adjusted does not need a fancy dance step.  Then he tucked his right arm into his side ?  what ever happened to arm extended support hand / arm supporting the rifle ? then the pressure against the arm torques the stock if to much pressure is applied your fighting with your firing hand.

I have generally held my rifle with the sling on my off side rifle forward sling with some pressure against my back holding the fore stock with my off hand I am right handed so my right hand is holding the grip or neck so the rifle is protecting my front torso from crotch to head if something crosses my torso I can fend it off.  If I need to fire just raise the rifle into position sling under my hand so I can slid my hand back to tighten  slack the rest is behind my arm back under and across my chest. There is no unclipping the sling comb end,  doing macramé' and weaving my arm though a twisted hole and all that jazz. it is and should be one fluid motion natural smooth. The writer seems to worry that the sling should not be in the palm or hand but wrapped around the back of the hand ? well that is an extra step that does not need to be there, I guess that this is for hunting or target shooting but for real field work it's kinda a "cluster fock"  IMHO. If I had that much time and ability to take my eyes off the target hell I would just drag out a lead sled and shooting table.  In my mind your rifle is your defense for your torso against machetes axes sticks bayonet attacks or a damn golden orb spider web your buddy turning loose a limb on you. for my purpose it makes my rifle easier to make a snap shot.because if what your hunting sees you you have to be faster than they are.

This flies in the face of train like you fight. everything should be fluid and have your defense and ability to fire accurate shots as fast as possible, I can drop my right arm and still have the rifle in position in the cleft of my right shoulder. Neither is the pressure doing anything more than what is required to hold a rifle of 6 to 12 pounds the pressure does no require the other hand to maintain a stable platform / position calibers up to 8X57 Mauser and 30-06 do  require a firm connection to the recoil pad or butt plate as to me and everyone I have shot with do not consider these to have much recoil more a bump. Recoil is dependent on the rifle butt width of stock,  type recoil pad drop of comb,  weight of rifle, bullet weight and velocity.  If you want to limit felt recoil a Kickeze but pad helps.

Rifles I find that have a sharp kick are lever actions in big calibers because the narrow width of the stock.  Straight comb rifles like Winchesters If you want or need a big bore or magnum look at a rifle with a drop to the comb and you'll be amazed at how little recoil is transfered back into your shoulder. Over 50 pounds of free recoil is not a day session at the range and if your not paying attention they can hurt you, and you do not want to fire them off a bench with both feet under it I straddle and use a sand bag  between my shoulder and the butt ? Why because I had to shoot in freshly scoped or bore sighted rifles before hunting season  after you shoot in a couple dozen rifles or more a day you look for the easy way but still can end up with a recoil headache or whiplash if you have to shoot in a few monsters like 450 NE or 460 wby  416 Rigby or many of the Ultra mags I guess the worst is a 577NE that I encountered now there are some more powerful ones -- ouch!

Shotguns are different you have to experience them some loads use gas seal and piled shot those have a good snap to them  ones that use a wad piston or cushion etc. have less felt recoil and with light field loads not much at all. to find out how bad it is find the heaviest hottest load off the shelf and shoot a box ( I mean a 25 count box)  of magnum loads a big difference in shooting dove and quail loads, but again some shotguns manage the recoil better than others all I know is an old single shot Topper shotgun with a 3 inch magnum max load of buckshot will rock your world. 

 

 

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