P210SIG

What types of silent weapons have you stored for SHTF?

17 posts in this topic

I've some aside if needed.

Sling shots & ball bearings.

Throwing knives.

Bows & arrows.

A 22 pellet gun that's 760 FPS.

Any firearm that uses ammo that brakes the sound barrier, is a big NO! 

In my area we can't own silent sirs. for firearms, do to by-laws.

So what do you have to not attract attention.

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Sling shots, extra surgical tubing, leather pads, marbles-really cheap at thrift and dollar stores, LOTS of .177 caliber pellets, (pointed and hollow point), and a few other "odds and ends" which for OPSEC shall remain unannounced.

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2 Bows and arrows, Sling shot(rubber band type, Sling (David and Goliath type, several aluminum bats, many swords and edged/pointy weapons of all types, several air rifles and pistols, BBs and 177 pellets by the thousands, Throwing knives, Hawks, throwing axes and battle axes, Wire garottes in the hat band of all my hats, Heavy snare wire for traps, Night vision equipment (if I can see you and you can't see me it makes it easier to get close for a scilent take out.) Light spears/darts and atlatl.

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Another fun and useful toy is an adapter that will turn a sling shot into a sling bow. I made mine out of a ring cut off the end of a 1.5" pvc coupler. It has the beveled end facing the shooter. I drilled two tiny holes on each side and then attach it with wire or zip ties to the U of the sling shot. Using a leather punch I put two holes in the pouch such that the nock fits through the OO little strap in the middle. You know, it surprised me with the power. It is plenty for bunnies, squirrels, frogs and fish.

 

I plan on adding a bunch of 80lb mono wires through the ring in the future to center and support the arrow to improve accuracy but even as is I can hit cans and such from 40' or so pretty easily. The ring itself weighs nothing and is easily installed so it is a nice addition to a slingshot accessory kit.

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i use ball bearingsfor my slings and marbles and little round glass thingies from the dollar store.. bows air guns atlatl and spears ,

tomaawk and a special hammer used in forge work... thats a sweety , along with my knives and a black powder cap pistol that shoots a .20 caliber bullet for close in work..

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wrist rocket type using cast lead shot a couple of them and I have some extra tubing stored in vaccum sealed bags I purged them with nitrogen from a friends wire feed welder and then vac sealed them air breaks down rubber quickly.

 

I have a few bullet molds from #1 #4 buck  #00 #000 and #0000  I think the #00 and #000 are the best for myself

looking at the friends across the oceans the power bands and home made catapults are terrific some of the videos on youtube are very impressive I think I may try to build a few I have some stabilized epoxy plywood and the smaller versions look very nice.

 

Some information I once read rates a lead shot can be fired at velocities equal or past  to some of the older large rimfire

loads of the early 1900's and with the better designs and rubber it makes these even more effiencet.

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the one thing I saw was a slng shot or catapult bow using a ring about 1 inch in diameter between the forks on a sling shot you can use

an arrow and take medium game as an arrow has a lot of weight and potential lethality over just a ball.

 

All of this without altering so it could not be quickly changed over  or canibalizing your sling shot to a point of destroying it.

As well you can use any type arrow home made, wood to carbon fiber, with a zebco style reel mounted on the bottom it would make a great fishing bow

A fluflu arrow and it can take birds and you can be off a bit and sitill get a fatal strike

 

a lot of this information is easily found on youtube

 

I consider only a few weapons other than firearms to be vital a spear / fishing gig a way to project lethat projectiles and the bow is great but here

it is far from handy to carry a compound bow is great until it breaks a part and or you run out of arrows made to take the force of a compound bow.

also the speed of reloading and size all goes to the catapult or sling shot adding in the arrow firing ability weight it makes the cut in all catagories.

 

Wally we have been talking about weigh of BOB's and I am in your camp I am not as young as I once was I can carry quite a bit but

for how long ? one day I will have to sit down and minimize my BOB and cache the leavings so I can continue on.

 in my area I will have to move 300 to 500 miles if on foot I know the troubles I will face and if I get down to bare minimum a sling shot will be in that

BOB as well as a spear tip & gig.

 

Arrow heads can be made in a wood mold carved with a knife and melting wheel weight lead it only takes 750 degrees to get fine pourable lead.

easily done on a camp firee, flint knapping is great but it ain't eazy and it is a tallent.

#000 buck shot single or double mold from lee and you can scavange weel weights and make it into shot and into simple flat arrow heads.

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lead has very little in the way of a cutting edge. Getting a hit with an arrow is just the start. If you dont cause massive hemorrhaging in just a few minutes, your deer is going to be in the next county and by the time he dies, the coyotes and dogs will have peed alll over him.

 

melting lead over a fire takes a Dakota pit, lined with big stones, charcoal, and a way to fan the flames. Either that, or you'll need 2 ft long handles on your mould and your pouring ladle. Cause getting that close to that big a fire will fry your face.

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instead, just get the "how to make a silencer" series of books from Paladin Press and Amazon (cheaper) There's one for .22lr, Mini14m and the .45 ACP 1911. Start with the .22. Once you truly understand how to make the baffles, weld in and thread the rear end-plug, make the baffle forming kit, and how to have several shops do the work for you (without knowing what it is) and half a day of your own labor, you'll have one everty bit as good as the $1000 ones that are for sale.  What you do is have a piece of tubing 6 ft long, and have a plug welded into either end. Nobody would think that you're going to cut 8" off of each end. :-)  The .22 can may be made of PVC pipe, no welder or lathe is required. the internal threading of the barrel is a very clever answer to the mounting problem.  Once you understand the process, you can make a beautifully efficent baffle in 2 minutes. The .22lr baffle takes half that long. The rear half of the baffle stack must be made of annealed copper screen wire, the front half can be made of the far more commonly found, cheaper aluminum screen.  The hi-v rifle can must have a "sleeve" tube mounted around the baffle tube. the rear 1/3rd of the baffle tube has to be stuffed with freeze plugs. that part of the baffle tube has to have holes drilled into the side of it, venting the hot gases into the "sleeve area" between the 2 long tubes. The sleeve area is filled with a wrap of copper screen wire, so as to soak up the heat energy of the gases. YOu can weld a washer into either end of the sleeve area, or you can render this area accessible with  thick washer, a couple of o rings (and matching grooves in the washer and the baffle tube) and hold in that thick washer with an internal snapring. The front baffle in the main tube is held in by a washer and a snapring, too. The main baffles are made of rectangles of single thickness screenwire (about 3"x6" for the .22lr) fold them into 1/3rd wide strips, lengthwise, Spindle them on a rod that's .026" larger in OD than your bullet. (22lr) and more like .080" larger than your 223 or other hi-v rifle bullet. The screen is then crushed by a mallet blow, between the "piston of the baffle-forming kit, and the washer that is pinned across the head of your shaping rod, all done inside of the "'cylinder" (a  4" long hunk of the same size tubing as your baffle-tube.) make a baffle, remove it from the cylinder and stack it in the baffle tube. repeat until the tube is full, install the front washer and snapring.  for the hi-v rifle, you have to swage open the freeze plugs, so that they have a tight fit inside of the tube. If you do not do this, the hammer blows of shots will compress the screenwire "donut" baffles and then you'll have your freeze plugs sliding around making noise each time you raise or lower the gun.

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about 20 states wont let you have a silencer, and the Feds get a $200 tax and a background check on you in the other 30 states. Or you'll be looking at a 10 year stay in prison, for EACH silencer that you make, and each rifle whose barrel you shorten below 16". and each full auto that you create. Once shtf, tho, no law will mean anything. You can get nearly all of the work done, scatter/bury the parts and materials, and if any of them are found, it wont mean a thing, legally.  best not bury on your property, tho, or leave any prints on anything.  A threaded barrel is not illegal. a tube with a plug welded into it is not illegal (as long as it's not threaded)  It's not illegal to have screenwire, or a baffle forming kit,  neoprene  orrubber and steel washers for making the compartmentalizing parts, nor the kid's pointed paper scissors for cutting the screen wire.  The rear half of the can gets too much heat and blast for aluminum screen to withstand, and the copper screen has to be annealed before it will take and retain the formed shape of the baffle. This annealing is easily done on a gas kitchen stove, or with a propane torch.

 

there is no need for the sleeve-tube on a .22lr "can".  The area of the hi-v rifle can with the freeze plug stack in it, has to have holes drilled into the sides of the baffle tube, so that the hot gases can be vented. a well fit plastic tube, slid down inside of the baffle tube, will hide those vent holes from the welder. Just on general principle, when I'm making a working model of my "patented" idea, I use several shops, to make one piece each, and I dont park where any of them might see my license plate

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icepick is a good way to get shot. Counting on getting close enough for either one is foolhardy. A Marlin Papoose with 8" of barrel and 6" of silencer, with a telescoping buttstock lets you get into position without being noticed, and can brain a man from 30 yds, easily enough.

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I am, but almost nobody wants to spend that sort of money.  A properly set up AR is nearly $2000, even if you do build your own silencer.  For the cheapskates, a silenced .22lr autorifle, which takes down easily, is the next best option. and frankly, not one in 1000 men knows enough for more than the .22 to make any difference.

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