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Winchester Recalls Lots Of .22 Long Rifle Ammo

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Winchester has determined the above lots of 22 Long Rifle rimfire ammunition may contain double powder charges. Ammunition with double powder charges

 

Here is a link to the news about double loaded Winchester 22 long rifle

 

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2014/01/chris-dumm/winchester-pulls-major-derp-recalls-lots-22-long-rifle-ammo/

 

 

DO NOT USE WINCHESTER® M*22™ 22 Long Rifle RIMFIRE AMMUNITION WITH LOT NUMBERS GD42L or GD52L

 

If you have any questions concerning this 22 Long Rifle rimfire ammunition recall please call toll-free 866-423-5224,

 

This is a public service announcement AAAAAAAKKKKK !AAAAAAAAAAKKKKKKK ! AAAAKKKKKKKKKK !

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The only 22 ammo that I've bought in the last 5 or 10 years has been CCI or Aguila. I bought so much before Y2k that I'll never be short of that again. It is amazing how much of the stuff I got for Y2k turned into a just GREAT investment. Silver at 8 bucks and oz, Gold at 246 an oz and thousands of 22lr and shotgun shells at prices  that now are unimaginable.

 

I wonder what would happen if these rounds were fired in a bolt action or anything other than an automatic??? The barrel thickness at the chamber and breach face difference between a 22lr and a 22mag is minimal to the point of nonexistent. Now in an automatic I can see a problem...several actually but in a solid chamber I doubt it would mean much. Straight wall cartridges don't often have a case separation problem like the bottle nose types do (God what a mess it is when that happens!) What cha think Snake?

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Are you asking about 22 mag in a 22 Long Rifle ?  In a break action it is possible, but bolts the weakness may be in the extractor

 

area. nothing worse than spitting an extractor.

 

The pressures are about the same BUT shooting a Long Rifle in a mag would be a problem as the LR is smaller and would rupture the case.

 

and it is the small difference that will create a BIG pressure spike once the case is ruptured air / least resistance all that scientific crap

 

that we don't respect that will tear sh*t up like your hand and face / head.

 

rechambering is not too bad 79 bucks for a reamer and the price of a few other tools, but still I would have to hear of a successful conversion

 

with a lifespan you can convert anything but will it last or can it hurt you.

 

after a conversion cost figure you could have bought a single shot in multiple calibers like a TC contender or a H&R handi rifle would be money

 

better spent.

 

I can see a single shot in multiple calibers as a plus but as always a semi sidearm to make up for the loss of firepower

 

most actions are built for their case dimensions and the bolts can be an alloy or partially alloy better to get a conversion cases from like 223

 

to 22 mag for a real rifle.  I think MACE in Alaska has them.

 

Once you step out of the box any design change would put all the liability on you eve if XYZ company made the same rifle in both calibers

 

and the barrel was the same it does not mean that the metallurgy is the same.

 

I am in the process of a conversion similar BUT I would never advise it to anyone even renting the reamer it will have a challenge or 3

 

nothing is ever as simple as it looks, except in a break action single shot and even then it is all a matter of looking at what others have done.

 

I am not a trail blazer on things that have already been done, why reinvent the wheel I would be willing to bet if your planning anything

 

someone has already lost an eye or done it LOL.

 

the other problem is once a conversion is done, can you sell it without some responsibility {i don't know} a conversion in my mind is only good if

 

it has a value and of course not dangerous IMHO

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Have looked at all of my stash, thankfully,none with that lot number. Some years ago, I bought thousands and thousands of rounds of .22LR and .22 Magnum ammo, because I felt "prompted" to. Never felt bad about it either. It was dirt cheap and very plentiful, most of my shooting friends thought I was nuts. I still have sufficient on hand in the ammo locker for whatever needs my adult kids and grandkids might need for a very long time.  NI continue tom pick up case lots when I can find full cases-of course it's far more expensive now, b ut still worth it.

I figure those little 50 round boxes of round nosed lead ammo will be worth something to someone who only has a .22LR pistol mor rifle and little to no ammo for them. Those with the lead, set the price.

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TPS good call

 

I have my ammo and I have trade stock CCI 40 grn copper plated 1265 fps are mine ALL MINE everything else is for whatever else I need

 

just before the BIG DROUGHT OF 2012  a friend was over in south Texas and ran across a place that had my favorites on sale so I got

 

2 bricks on sale for 40 bucks each tax, title & out the door, I was a little annoyed as it was an expenditure I was not expecting and I had

 

picked up a few at wally world just the day before Had I known then what I do now I would have bought all of them, hind sight it's a bit@h.

 

but I had planned on doing some plinking but as soon as I noticed that the 22 shelf was bare I shut er' down no playing only hunting.

 

My real frustration is I did not get another brick of Aguila Colibre' / powderless shells before TSHTF I only have 7 boxes left.

 

But I still have a couple bricks worth of OLD CCI 22 short CPHP that do in a pinch but them Aguila Colibre's  are nice just right for

 

squirrel at short range.

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I think I need to say that if you own a revolver. a bolt or break action that it is not as important of what brand  22 ammo you have

 

My preference is for semi auto rifle and pistol function and accuracy.

 

In these other firearms all that is needed is consistency so at least have a good brand of ammo you can find that information by

 

Typing in the name bullet weight and reviews in any search engine and read a few pages online reviews are brutal if a product or

 

a seller is bad they will post it.

 

Some semi autos are finicky I like to go with a higher than standard velocity as the power imparted cycles the semi auto arm.

 

IMHO people should look for accuracy and function over hype unless you have tested it you have no idea if it will work for you.

 

Some have too much fire & brimstone for some shooters any ammo can have a bullet design that may not work well in your arm.

 

Machoism aside it is better to hit with a 38 than miss with a 357 rim fire ammo can be dramatically different in light small pocket guns.

 

muzzle whip flash and even ejection can be a problem, certain brands can fire and eject well and little muzzle flash but that is

 

not always the case I have fired hyper velocity that although great on paper leave a bit to be desired in real life.

 

Tremendous muzzle flash muzzle whip that obscures the target and ejecting the empty hull down the back of your neck instead of

 

to the side like putting English on a que ball make it react differently in certain guns,

 

All aspects of shooting effect your performance a lot of misfires breeds trigger jerking loss of concentration on your target.

 

Ammo that is not consistent can shoot patterns rather than groups most people do not shoot enough to know it is not them and

 

that can erode confidence.

 

I have fired rim fire ammo that made me look at the gun and wonder if something was wrong as it was barley able to cycle the action

 

or see it fly to the target the worst is you think you broke it,

 

Always keep bulk ammo in its original boxes, as they have a lot number cardboard stored in dry containers like an mil spec ammo can

 

last as long as you will.

 

Revolvers have barrel gap this sometimes makes them sound louder or in some cases spits powder or gives a flash at night

 

it also reduces given velocities that are generally liberal in the first place, but how many of you own a chronograph to test it ?

 

most posted velocities are from a 4 inch barrel or rifle barrel and it could be a test barrel tight chambered and a tight bore

 

this gives a greater velocity than will come from most of our stuff.

 

That being said, we are looking at getting the highest velocity and best bullet weight that we can shoot comfortably in our firearm.

 

An ultra light handgun will recoil harder and have more muzzle whip than the same gun in a standard frame and the characteristics

 

Of shooting and recoil change, sometimes dramatically even though the caliber is mundane.

 

a pocket size small caliber with a plastic frame can recoil more than a larger caliber in a steel frame with just a slightly larger size.

 

Novice shooters really need to try a gun first if they can.

 

And please before you shoot it clean it and put some fresh lube on it, I like dry lube and I also like rem oil and breakfree

 

dry lube works better in dry dusty climates I use oil in damp or humid climates either will work but suiting you lube to your climate

 

is a consideration of course this all depends on how much you shoot and how you store your gun NEVER store a arm in a RUG

 

Or case at least every month look at it see if it is getting rusty or floating in toilet water even holsters can be the cause of damage

 

like scratching rusting or discoloration and stainless is not PURE stainless it is an alloy and can rust not bad but it looks funky.

 

and you cannot always tell the finish some look blue are actually an epoxy or matt anodized finish some parts are plated

 

and some are plastic like the main spring housing on some colt's and clones.

 

before working or fiddling with any weapon check and double check and look to insure it is unloaded

 

grips need to be removed and the frame needs to be wiped down and check for dust bunnies and roaches as well as rust.

 

use the correect tip screw driver not a dollar store one most any exchangeable  bit type allows you to fit the bit to the screw

 

or in cases of torx ot hex make sure you have a couple of those for your bit driver and don't use metric in a English standard

 

make sure your bit is in and bottomed out before you start turning / cranking on it.

 

Don't over tighten if your worried or have had a screw loosen or back out use some BLUE locktite NOT RED NOT RED

 

I think I can say without fear of being contradicted that most guns have not been fired more than 500 times, less in rifle less in bolt single shot.

 

and pistols most have never been cleaned properly and disassembly does not mean down to every part it means to its basic components

 

I cannot tell you how many times I had got a box full of parts and most times with dinged pins or releases that only needed to be pushed out

 

not driven out with a rusty nail.

 

If your not sure ask there are many videos on youtube as well as printed material there are a few you should not tackle without

 

having someone who knows with you one is a Ruger MK I, II, III 22/45 model it is easy if you know how and why it is a real bugger if you don't

 

In fact I am almost sure the inventor ended up in a nut house if your wanting to clean one of these regularly get a speed strip kit here.

 

http://majesticarms.com/id10.html

 

Revolvers need to have the grips removed a good spray GUN cleaner wash it out use bore brushes and clean cylinder and barrel top strap

 

With a tooth brush maybe some flitz brand metal polish  as well as the cylinder face recoil shield and muzzle.

 

wipe it off put on one or 2 drops of oil in KEY pivot points push the ejector oil the shaft at the front too cylinder pin and latch

 

the pivot point of the crane close the cylinder cock the pistol and down beside each side of the trigger and the front you see a lever that

 

is the sear a drop there a drop on the firing pin it may be in the frame or it may be on the hammer face a stuck firing pin on a hammer

 

causes them to break they need to move up and down freely and wipe off excess a frame mounted can get water in it and freeze

 

it is rare  but if you get it wet blow it out and work it with a nylon widget or a wood nail cuticle pusher as you spray gun cleaner in it.

 

and then oil it.

 

semi autos have different needs better to have someone show you I have seen river silt compacted in the extractor of a 45 ACP colt

 

and firing pin a 45 ACP is suppose to be GI proof and they are but you have to field strip the slide and clean a reassemble al the parts.

 

lets put it this way,  if you take a bath in the river your going to have to clean your arm well because it is full of silt.

 

everyone should know how to properly clean their weapon as well as know what parts may get lost and have extra ones

 

If you own a 45 a recoil spring plug and grip screws and bushings is all you will need for basic disassembly and cleaning

 

if your intending to go further a magnetic bowl and all the small parts like springs and detents as well as pins mainspring cap

 

I worked in a shop with a concrete floor and some shelves drop a part and we did everything except hold a voodoo ceremony

 

and still never found a part we lost it can and does happen so have parts.

 

Read as much as you can find on your weapon every model and type has it's idocycracies parts that wear or break / get lost

 

I hope some of my wanderings helped someone this is not off topic just further down the list because if you shoot hyper velocity

 

shells out of a gun not designed for them you will need this info IMO.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

as the GUN cleaner spray removes old oil and grit

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