Capt Bart

What have you done today to better your Prep? III

728 posts in this topic

14 minutes ago, juzcallmesnake said:

you need to save your milk jugs cut out the bottom and set them on your seedlings it will prevent frost bite until the plant is hardened enough to survive. and they stack well with the bottom out.

if you have a lot of plants a visqueen tent works as well.

I use 2 Litre pop bottles.

The issue this year was the high winds in my area knocked them over at night, that killed most of the plants.

Will work on a wind barrier to build, that's if I still plan on staying in the city.

Plans are in the works to move to northern Ontario Canada & out of daily grind of city riff rafts.

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We have had wicked winds and storms as well sorry for your loss thats a lot of effort and people that do not garden do not realize a seed gives back a hundred to one 50 to one and 20 to one plant and any time lost for plant die off  shortens the grow season and crop.

The drums are working out I have a 5 gallon bucket of soap from the leavings in the barrels so far and I place them fill with a half cup of bleach seal and use them as  a base for shelves with plywood keep a couple in each coupe / pen so if water goes off or gets short I have a source there going to build a few siphon pumps just need some PVC, marbles, fittings and "O" rings

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Yesterday I did a barter trade.

I traded 1,000 pcs once fired Winchester 45 acp brass for 800 pcs of 308 once fired brass.

i think I got a better deal out of it, since 1/3 was Lapua brass & the rest was Remington & Federal brass.

In my books the top tier quality rifle brass are Lapua, Norma, & Hornady.

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I was looking for a screw that fell and rolled under the couch and found 1,000 winchester once fired cases in a box and 300 winchester AA hulls Once fired. if I recall I have a 6 gallon bucket full of new 3" high brass Fiochi hulls primed with enough cork wads gas seals overshot cards grex and powder to get er done.

 

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Well this year was way better for my blackberries figs and looks like grapes are only a few weeks off.

I only got a half dozen tomatoes due to the damn squirrels but I have been getting lima beans and yard log beans as well as yellow squash.

I have gallons of all kind of dried beans put back and weight to finished product is amazing beans biscuits pancakes gravy hoe cakes salt water corn bread greens of all kinds kept our forefathers together wild game as could be found fish and birds that is where simple traps come in passive and you just need to check them once a day.

my potatoes greens have died so I need to dig them up ought to get about 5 pounds from this raised box bed then I will have taters & white pepper gravy those yard long green beans and some sliced  tomatoes with mayo and fried yellow squash hummm good love living in the south  :D

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Another day chained to the oar called MICROSH*T, my  hard drive bailed on one of the laptops and I had to go to best buy and get another if I would be putting a version of Linux on it in an hour would have been doing other things but microsh*t is always a b@stard find all the new drivers look for other drivers then restart every time you install some software and it comes with SH*T where are PEACHOSI or LinuxLite comes fairly loaded.

the drive I got was a 500 gig cheapest WD and its great except Microshaft cant allocate memory release memory and is fidgety about older hardware were as Linux ran a scanner I had for years until it bit the bullet most any HP printer will work with Linux but once Microshaft decide not to support one if it's many failures hardware companies forget they even made the model and you have to replace all your TV cards video scanner printer etc etc because drivers are outdated.

Anymore anything you buy does not come with software unless preconfigured so hunting down drivers is a pain this ASUS laptop I had to use a magnifying glass to read the model under the battery LMAO had 12 screws and I still had to use a can opener to pry it apart.

many technological doodads are throw away or until the latest and greatest NEW model comes out ....... think I crank up a John Wayne movie but every time I look away Windows ask do you wan to restart or update or do not shut down till updates complete and that has taken hours.

My father told me if I always kept my word was honest and finished the job I would go far in life --- bet bill gates dad never told him that line of crap ! because he never has IMHO.

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Today was a better day got another freezer a chest type the old one gave up the ghost I think if possible I will get another as chest freezers seem to be able to hide stuff so one for beef and pork another for chicken fish and vegetables.

not that I have any reason that to have some sort of method of sorting and not allowing overbuying and letting items go into freezer burn mode and I would rather have 2 on 2 different circuits than what I had was one and the new ones are so darn cheap on power usage, I think by accident I may save on electricity even with 2 freezers.

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today sucks I am casting buckshot and this is not the time of year for doing this !

Its hot barley a breeze and I got 15 more pounds in the pot already dropped 20 pounds this AM I hope to get it done by 1 or 2 pm in right now for some refreshment and a cool down the handles on my molds are SMOKIN'

Casting is only the first step then you have to cut them apart I cast hard shot so it is about 12 to 15 BNH and pure lead is 4.3 to 5 so this stuff does not deform as easily and makes for better patterns if you pattern to check IMHO.

I only cast a few sizes #1  #4 and  00 buck and punkin' ball runs about 690 grn and some lee slugs now and again.

well time to go drops some more it ain't gonna get done sitting here.

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done ===== I think I got about 10 pounds of #1  I may do more another day but I need a cooler day.

this is to say it is cast but still need the sprue cut so that should be another hour or so but I can do that indoors in the AC.

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I've been thinking about casting some 9mm lead bullets as well this weekend. 

Purchased a new Lee 124grain molds that need a work out.

Have about 15lbs of lead sitting next to my Lee Pro 4-20 melter that need my attention. 

Ive only casted 38, 44, & 45 pistol bullets & 7/8 ounce 12 guage slugs in the past.

As for rifle bullets, I'll stick with FMJ projectiles & nothing else.

 

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P210SIG if you want to try it and I would really only do it in mid bore size bolt rifle is pure Linotype it is very hard about 24 BH harder than chicken lips no gas check unless your willing to check the barrel before each shot.

I posted on the cat sneeze and C. E. Harris "the load" or 12 grains of red dot over a heavy cast bullet in a bolt rifle. Don't take this as gospel but as I recall pistol primers could be used as this load and the cat sneeze did not exceed the pressure barrier and you did not need a magnum primer.

no matter just have Linotype on hand if the crap hist the fan as it is quieter and takes down game easily at 100 meters  pretty accurate and uses most any pistol powder but do download and read his tritest on this important subject and have a mold a double cavity is cheap and as far as my reading it is better to use a heavier bullet like 165 to 180 out of a 10-06 or 308 more bearing surface etc you know the drill .....

I would probably get an old Mosin and paper patch a 308 cast bullet and see what it can do my favorite paper patch is cigarette roiling paper easier to control circumference /  thickness as it is thin not like news paper or printer paper of course it all depends on what caliber your patching up to I think you can go one caliber up with paper  or get sabots.

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4 hours ago, juzcallmesnake said:

do you use a Lee sizer ? I love mine Lee liquid alox is fantastic IMO

Yes, I always use a Lee sizer for all my cast bullets.

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years ago before we had a choice I had a lyman luber sizer damn thing was a pain in the posterior if it was cold the lube would not flow if it was hot it was all over the place and ever caliber nose or ogive needed a different top punch and when I noticed that the cannalure wis filled with lube after firing I was disenchanted to say the least. And it was expensive and time consuming

Lee came along and made a slicker than snot on a doorknob way and I even got the gang molds for tumble lube bullets that have the shallow mini grooves that hold the Lee Alox put them on wax paper and once it is sets up  start sizing I do use surgical gloves to keep my hands clean but man it goes a lot faster and not much loss I even scrape the wax paper and put it in a old plastic bowl with a lid add more Alox and a bit if paint thinner and stir it up lube a bunch more and spread them out I have been thinking about getting a silicone baking sheet instead of using wax paper and if the base has Alox on it I have fired cast in rifle and had no deformation of the base of the bullet really amazing sh*t and it saves on gas checks and they are NOT CHEAP and at low velocities they can separate from the bullet and remain in the bore rare as hell but all it need to do is happen once and it will destroy your rifle if a person is not checking after every round of sub sonic to low velocity rounds.

Here is the time to tell that aluminum gas checks are sh*T don't buy them don't bother aluminum fouling is not obvious but in no time your groups will open up or not group at all it is a bit@h to clean out and you won't know its gone till the next range session or hunt I don;t even like aluminum cans or alumina chlorhydrate or anything aluminum except my bullet molds that does not seem to be a problem and some of mine and older than some here.

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found a copy of C.E. Harris "the load"

I would cut paste and print this as it is getting hard to find.


CAST BULLET LOADS FOR MILITARY RIFLES

Cast bullets can make shooting that surplus rifle easy and economical.
And basic data works for many different guns.

BY C.E. Harris

Cast bullet loads usually give a more useful zero at practical field ranges with military battle sights than do full power loads. Nothing is more frustrating than a military rifle that shoots a foot high at 100 yards with surplus ammo when the sight is as low as it will go! Do not use inert fillers (Dacron or kapok) to take up excess empty space in the case. This was once common practice, but it raises chamber pressure and under certain conditions contributes to chamber ringing. If a particular load will not work well without a filler, the powder is not suitable for those conditions of loading. Four load classifications from Mattern (1932) cover all uses for the cast bullet military rifle. I worked up equivalent charges to obtain the desired velocity ranges with modern powders, which provide a sound basis for loading cast bullets in any post-1898 military rifle from 7mm to 8mm:

1. 125 grain plain based "small game/gallery" 900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

2. 150 grain plain based "100-yard target/small game", 1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

3. 170-180 grain gas checked "200 yard target", 1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grains of Hercules #2400 or equivalent.

4. 180-200 grain gas-checked "deer/600 yard target", 1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grains of RL-7 or equivalent.

None of these loads are maximum when used in full-sized rifle cases such as the 30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Jap, 7.62x54R Russian , or 30-06. They can be used as basic load data in most modern military rifles of 7mm or larger, with a standard weight cast bullet for the caliber, such as 140-170 grains in the 7x57, 150-180 grains in the .30 calibers, and 150-190 grains in the 8mm. For bores smaller than 7mm, consult published data.

The Small Game or Gallery" Load

The 110-115 grain bullets intended for the .30 carbine and .32-20 Winchester, such as the Lyman #3118, #311008, #311359, or #311316 are not as accurate as heavier ones like the #311291. There isn't a readily available .30 caliber cast small game bullet of the proper 125-130 grain weight. LBT makes a 130 grain flat-nosed gas-check bullet for the .32 H&R Magnum which is ideal for this purpose. I recommend it highly, particularly if you own a .32 revolver.

The "100 Yard Target and Small Game" Load

I use Mattern's plain-based "100 yard target load" to use up my minor visual defect culls for offhand and rapid-fire 100 yard practice. I substitute my usual gas-checked bullets, but without the gas-check. I started doing this in 1963 with the Lyman #311291. Today I use the Lee .312-155-2R, or the similar tumble-lubed design TL.312-160-2R. Most of my rifle shooting is done with these two basic designs.

Bullets I intend for plain based loads are blunted using a flat-nosed top punch in my lubricator, providing a 1/8" flat which makes them more effective on small game and clearly distinguishes them from my heavier gas-checked loads. This makes more sense to me than casting different bullets.

Bullet preparation is easy. I visually inspect each run of bullets and throw those with gross defects into the scrap box for remelting. Bullets with minor visual defects are tumble-lubed in Lee Liquid Alox without sizing, and are used for plain base plinkers. Bullets which are visually perfect are weighed and sorted into groups of +/- 0.5 grain for use in 200 yard matches. Gas checks are pressed onto bullet bases by hand prior to running into the lubricator-sizer. For gas-check bullets loaded without the gas- checks, for cases like the .303 British, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian and 30-06, I use 6-7 grains of almost any fast burning powder. These include, but are not limited to Bullseye, WW231, SR-7625, Green Dot, Red Dot or 700-X. I have also had fine results with 8 to 9 grains of medium rate burning pistol or shotgun powders, such as Unique, PB, Herco, or SR-4756 in any case of .303 British or larger.

In the 7.62x39 case, use no more than 4 grains of the fast burning powders mentioned or 5 grains of the shotgun powders. Theses make accurate 50 yard small game loads which let you operate the action manually and save your precious cases. These plinkers are more accurate than you can hold.

Repeated loading of rimless cases with very mild loads results in the primer blast shoving the shoulder back, unless flash holes are enlarged with a No. 39 drill bit to 0.099" diameter. Cases which are so modified must never be used with full powered loads! Always identify cases which are so modified by filing a deep groove across the rim and labeling them clearly to prevent their inadvertent use. For this reason on I prefer to do my plain based practice shooting in rimmed cases like the 30-30, 30-40 Krag, 303 British and 7.62x54R which maintain positive headspace on the rim and are not subject to this limitation.

The Harris "Subsonic Target" Compromise

Mattern liked a velocity of around 1250 f.p.s. for his 100 yard target load because this was common with the lead bullet .32-40 target rifles of his era. I have found grouping is best with non gas- checked bullets in military rifles at lower velocities approaching match grade .22 long rifle ammunition. I use my "Subsonic Target" load at around 1050-1100 f.p.s. to replace both Mattern's "small game" and "100 yard target" loads, though I have lumped it with the latter since it really serves the same purpose. It's report is only a modest "pop" rather than a "crack".

If elongated bullet holes and enlarged groups indicate marginal bullet stability, increase the charge no more than a full grain from the minimum recommended, if needed to get consistent accuracy. If this doesn't work, try a bullet which is more blunt and short for its weight because it will be more easily stabilized. If this doesn't do the trick, you must change to a gas-checked bullet and a heavier load.


The Workhorse Load - Mattern's "200 yard Target"

My favorite load is the most accurate. Mattern's so-called "200 yard target load." I expect 10 shot groups at 200 yards, firing prone rapid with sling to average 4-5". I shoot high Sharpshooter, low Expert scores across the course with an issue 03A3 or M1917, shooting in a cloth coat, using may cast bullet loads. The power of this load approximates the 32-40, inadequate for deer by today's standards. Mattern's "200 yard target load" is easy to assemble. Because it is a mild load, soft scrap alloys usually give better accuracy than harder ones, such as linotype. Local military collector-shooters have standardized on 16 grains of #2400 as the "universal" prescription. It gives around 1500 f.p.s. with a 150-180 grain cast bullet in almost any military caliber. We use 16 grains of #2400 as our reference standard, just as high power competitors use 168 Sierra Match Kings and 4895.

The only common military rifle cartridge in which 16 grains of #2400 provides a maximum load, and which must not be exceeded, is in the tiny 7.63x39mm case. Most SKS rifles will function reliably with charges of #2400 as light as 14 grains with the Lee 312-155-2R at around 1500 f.p.s. I designed this bullet especially for the 7.62x39, but it works very well as a light bullet in any .30 or .303 caliber rifle.

Sixteen Grains of #2400 is the Universal Load

The same 16 grain charge of #2400 is universal for all calibers as a starting load. It is mild and accurate in any larger military case from a 30-40 Krag or .303 British up through a 30-06 or 7.9x57, with standard weight bullets of suitable diameter for the caliber. This is my recommendation for anybody trying cast bullets loads for the first time in a military rifle without prior load development. I say this because #2400 is not "position sensitive", requires no fiber fillers to ensure uniform ignition, and actually groups better when you stripper-clip load the rifle and bang them off, rather than tipping the muzzle up to position the powder charge.

Similar ballistics can be obtained with other powders in any case from 7.62x39 to 30-06 size. If you don't have Hercules #2400, you can freely substitute 17 grains of IMR or H4227, 18 grains of 4198, 21 grains of Reloder 7, 24 grains of IMR 3031, or 25.5 grains of 4895 for comparable results.

However, these other powders may give some vertical stringing in cases larger than the 7.62x39 unless the charge is positioned against the primer by tipping the muzzle up before firing. Hercules #2400 does not require this precaution. Don't ask me why. Hercules #2400 usually gives tight clusters only within a narrow range of charge weights within a grain or so, and the "universal" 16 grain load is almost always the best. Believe me, we have spent a lot of time trying to improve on this, and you can take our word for it.

The beauty of the "200 yard target load" at about 1500 f.p.s. is that it can be assembled from bullets cast from the cheapest, inexpensive scrap alloy, and fired all day without having to clean the bore. It always works. Leading is never a problem. Once a uniform bore condition is established, the rifle behaves like a .22 match rifle, perhaps needing a warming shot or two if it has cooled, but otherwise being remarkably consistent.

The only thing I do after a day's shooting with this load is to swab the bore with a couple of wet patches of GI bore cleaner or Hoppe's, and let it soak until the next match. I then follow with three dry patches prior to firing. It takes only about three foulers to get the 03A3 to settle into tight little clusters again.

"Deer and Long Range Target Load"

Mattern's "deer and 600 yard target load" can be assembled in cases of 30-40 Krag capacity or larger up to 30-06 using 18-21 grains of #2400 or 4227, 22-25 grains of 4198, 25-28 grains of RL-7 or 27-30 grains of 4895, which give from 1700-1800 f.p.s., depending on the case size. These charges must not be used in cases smaller than the 303 British without cross checking against published data! The minimum charge should always be used initially, and the charge adjusted within the specified range only as necessary to get best grouping.

Popular folklore suggests a barrel must be near perfect for good results with cast bullets, but this is mostly bunk, though you may have to be persistent.

I have a rusty-bored Finnish M28/30 which I have shot extensively, in making direct comparisons with the same batches of loads on the same day with a mint M28 and there was no difference. The secret in getting a worn bore to shoot acceptably is to remove all prior fouling and corrosion. Then you must continue to clean the bore "thoroughly and often" until it maintains a consistent bore condition over the long term. You must also keep cast bullet loads under 1800 f.p.s. for hunting and under 1600 f.p.s. for target work.

A cleaned and restored bore will usually give good accuracy with cast bullet loads if the bullet fits the chamber throat properly, is well lubricated and the velocities are kept below 1800 f.p.s.

The distinction between throat diameter and groove diameter in determining proper bullet size is important. If you are unable to determine throat diameter from a chamber cast, a rule of thumb is to size bullets .002" over groove diameter, such as .310" for a 30-06, .312" for a 7.63x54R and .314" for a .303 British.

"Oversized 30's", like the .303 British, 7.7 Jap, 7.65 Argentine, and 7.62x39 Russian frequently give poor accuracy with .30 caliber cast bullets designed for U.S. barrels having .300 bore and .308 groove dimensions. This is because the part of the bullet ahead of the driving bands receives no guidance from the lands in barrel s of larger bore diameter. The quick rule of thumb to checking proper fit of the forepart is to insert the bullet, nose first, into the muzzle. If it enters clear up to the front driving band without being noticeably engraved, accuracy will seldom be satisfactory.

The forepart is not too large if loaded rounds can be chambered with only slight resistance, the bullet does not telescope back into the case, or stick in the throat when extracted without firing. A properly fitting cast bullet should engrave the forepart positively with the lands, and be no more than .001" under chamber throat diameter on the driving bands. Cast bullets with a tapered forepart at least .002" over bore diameter give the best results.

Many pre-WWII Russian rifles of US make, and later Finnish reworks, particularly those with Swiss barrels by the firm SIG, have very snug chamber necks and cannot be used with bullets over .311" diameter unless case necks are reamed or outside turned to .011" wall thickness to provide safe clearance.

Bullets with a large forepart, like the Lee 312-155-2R or Lyman #314299 work best with the 7.62x54R because the forcing cones are large and gradual. Standard .30 caliber gas-checks are correct.

Finnish 7.62x54R, Russian 7.62x39 and 7.65 Argentine barrels are smaller than Russian 7.62x54R, Chinese 7.62x39, Jap 7.7 or .303 British barrels, and usually have standard .300" bore diameter. (Finnish barrels occasionally are as small as .298") and groove diameters of .310 -.3115".

In getting the best grouping with iron sighted military rifles, eyesight is the limiting factor. Anybody over age 40 who shoots iron sights should equip himself with a "Farr-Sight" from Gil Hebard or Brownell's. This adjustable aperture for your eyeglass frame was intended for indoor pistol shooters, but it helps my iron sight rifle shooting, and adds about 5 points to my score!

So now you have enough fundamentals to get started. If you want to have fun, give that old military rifle a try. You'll never know the fun you've been missing until you try it!

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If and I say if there comes a day when we need to subsistent hunt and want to be gray or not known we may have to use these "tricks'

I was reading through one of C.E, Harris articles I think it was from 2002 or one of he followers and he stated that cell phone towers are used to triangulate shots fired and was part of home l___d Se____ and was understood back in that time fast forward to 2017 technology has increased double every 18 months since so what can they do now ? this is from a very good source including other things they are capable of.

MY understanding is it can be discriminate between a construction piece of equipment and a real shot and was being used in major cities but signatures of these short range cast o not fall into that signature.

Reading some other white papers the longer the barrel on a 22 and using cb shorts or powderless cartridges also is under the signature.

It is not the same world anymore many things I hear and read make me very aware that our digital and other signatures are being shadowed we are the test bed in north America as we have the money technology and population with a predisposed belief that we are free but since wikileaks exposed the "great OZ" behind the curtain most people refuse to admit to themselves a painful truth your tv watches you your track of plastic use mail order email bookmarks social media are being analyzed to your disposition beliefs and even future actions. I am shocked at many actions taken by authorities upon civilians and it makes me wary.........IMHO  

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"Shot spotter", is the actual system used, and some municipalities have indeed mounted them on municipality owned cell towers. However, the algorithms used can be seriously screwed up by the cell signals as well. So, few cell towers are actually used, power line poles(wooden ones) are the preferred installation points. Many municipalities will list they use Shot Spotter on their law enforcement agency's website, very easy to verify as well. It takes more than a few to make them effective.

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I buy buckets or get them free from POOL companies these are bleach pucks or pellets I salvage all the dry bleach and place in a single bucket and in / on an area where the runoff will not kill grass or my plants or bleach stone or concrete,  I wash out all the buckets and lids allow to completely dry and seal the lid and store until I need them.   Grain or flour or meal needs to be frozen 10 days wrapped in a large towel and allowed to slowly come to room temperature so as not to absorb moisture from the air after 2 days place in a Mylar bag I get mine from www.beprepared.com Ffill the bag wipe dust from left over inner bag with dry paper towel remove all the air twist bend back to it self and tie very tight with a piece of cord fit into bucket and seal I have used flour after 10 years with no appreciable difference in taste  freezing removes moisture kills insect larvae which is in ALL flours and grains or else you will open your bag and it will be filled with weevils in an emergency you can use a sifter to remove them but why have them at all. Dried bleach / powdered or in pucks CANNOT BE ALLOWED TO GET WET IN A BUCKET !!! THEY WILL BUILD UP HEAT AND GO BOOM !  so make sure if you want to safe it seal the lid well and store in a cool dry place until you need it. Survival is not ONE thing it is  broad base of knowledge it is so vast that I would cut paste and use your office program to make documents print and make a preppers notebook in case you need a hard copy,  as well as save files and videos on a flash drive.  Keeping recipes for quick breads so you do not have to waste hours making old fashion recipes and using a lot of resources too cook, find the best method try and test for taste and how long it lasts. I had a devil of a time tracking down a good pilot rackers  recipe because many use oil and oils get rancid and make the crackers taste very bad, This is why stored crackers after a few onths taste like crap crackers will also absorb scents or even pickup dusty odors so pilot crackers need to be stored in a air tight jar or I buy #10 canned pilot crackers. breads and cakes can be cooked in a Iron skillet under low to medium heat but you need oil / cooking  grease or fat. One last bit is you can buy 5 gallon buckets of cooking lard you can repack in mason jars and can them in a bath canner make sure the edge of the jar is clean before placing the lid before you place them in the bath canner after they cool they will seal or PING those that don't you can reclean the jar edge and use a NEW lid and try again or just use it first --- keep open ones closed in a cool or refrigerated place until you need it. All of you thinking you don't use "LARD" or need it think again, manufactured "FOOD" like twink'les and other such items use all kinds of oils greases and saturated and non saturated oils and fats  labeled in such a way you have no idea that they are actually FAT. some are very bad for your cholesterol count !  the best pie crust is made from flour pinch of salt and using a dough cutter cutting in "lard" there is also vegetable lard as it does not burn as easily as butter. it is flaky light and OH SO GOOD ! for cobblers pies and Quiche's although Quiche is not considered a Man's food (thats just silly) it is a good way to use up excess eggs before they go bad and make them into a good hearty meal you can add left over meat vegetables and greens in them. Frying was a way to add texture flavor and caloric value like gravy potatoes and breads  in the old world people actually worked in all kinds of weather and needed the extra fat and calories to sustain them in hard labor over hours in the cold you body need fats and oils to make your skin elastic and build most every type of cell by converting it to collagen the basic building block for all cells. I have eaten "fried" biscuits over a coal fire cooked in an iron skillet because we were camping and had no oven made cake in a dutch oven  I guess if i had to make an extended camp or old homestead I would have a griddle fry pan 2/ lid and a dutch oven in cast iron they are heavy but nothing cooks like cast iron after you wipe it out wipe on a bit of lard heat it and store it for the next use it does not need to be "washed" the seasoning "baked on oil" makes it fairly non stick a hot pan sticks less start from a cold pan will stick every time. Dutch ovens can be hung over the fore with a triple tree on a chain placed in or buried in the coals or next to them as tour heat recipes needs allow. accessories should be a stainless spatula regular spoon, slotted spoon, ladle and carving fork a measuring cup flour sifter flour bucket or can w/ lid  chain hook on each end  and three legged  "dog"   to hold your pot and kettle over the fire you need a bowl for making bread a cutting board and a rolling pin and your going to need a big mule to haul all of it including tents tarps and sheets I would carry stainless mess trays and coffee cups as well as a coffee pot with peculator "guts"  at least 12 cups as you need hot water for cleaning scalding hot drinks and to tote water OH and a stainless bucket. just remember everything is HOT and needs a glove rag or mitt to handle we ain't talking prissy kitchen cooking of today !