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juzcallmesnake's Reloading Thread

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DANGER! any attempt to use any information revealed on any of my post could cause:

anxiety, butt puckering, cancer, death & dismemberment, eye loss, fallen arches, gout,

heavy metal poisonsing, impotence, jiggling pupils, kissing disease, loose stool, mashed fingers,

noggin' knobs, over active bladder, palsy, quivers, rickets, sinus drainage, tremors, urine colored shorts,

vacant bank account, wanker disease, x-rays, yellow stripe down your back,

zig zaging with your hair on fire.

you have been warned and I accept no responsibility for any mishap or act of GOD,

or in the case of atheists Murphy's law and any agnostics/ narcissistic tendencies, your own arrogance.

Your on your own, duck often and wear proper protection and obey all laws of physics and gravity

and chemistry.


I am posting this to see if can be tweaked and in the future will be a precursor to any post.

Edited by juzcallmesnake

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Well boys and girls


here is my next reloading trick first a reloading manual if you reload and do not have a Lyman manual

I like older manuals as they contain more information than the new ones on lead bullet reloading.


now get a burn rate chart for powders now understand that the powders used by manufacturers

and the military are not the same as what you buy, similar but not the same.


now to reverse engineer the load you have to know the bullet weight and the speed of the bullet

this is why the factory information on the ammo you have is important

in fact collect information from manufacturers and catalog it.


there is a strange anomaly called detonation in a shell it may sound like it explodes but actually it burns

a detonation is where the case capacity {air} and amount of and type powder is optimal for detonation.

normally when a case is being fire formed this can happen also a pinging where the shoulder neck area

is hammered by the bullet almost acting like a barrel obstruction.

In some cases a ridge is imprinted in the chamber and all ammo fired after this will have a bump / ridge

around the case neck / a pregnant spot seldom happens in stainless barrels.


powder is made for a specific purpose rifle is its own pistol and or shotgun if you look at reloading data

seem to be able to work interchangeably.


if you are trying to decide on most rounds for your buck bullseye powder

If your looking for versatility 2 powders come to mind 2400 and unique these powders can reload with the

proper reloading information low velocity lead bullets and some jacketed in rifle also pistol an shotgun


Now you need to research your caliber for the best and most versatile powder for your needs

When researching a powder of course accuracy but look for velocity and pressure

I like the case capacity to almost fill the case .


When starting a load you need to follow directions and start 10% lower than max at least and better yet

start at the bottom and work your way up you can beat a gun to death by firing max loads and it is

unnecessary there is a sweet spot where it all comes together.


Most used firearms have less than 500 shots fired through them I know people who fire less than 20

rounds per year sight in and then the hunt on their bolt rifles.

shotguns a case a year for most and magnum pistols are probably the least fired many buy them and

after firing them are fearful from muzzle whip or what ever.

The reason for this information to let you know that buying a used weapon can be a very good deal

and save you quite a bit of money.


If you decide to buy a used gun from a gun show or from some individual

a few tips although not all factors are included but a good general overview.


a few checks on revolvers, of course make sure the fire arm is unloaded

with the pistol pointed at you and cylinder closed attempt to push the cylinder out looking at the crane

gap the area where the arm of metal that holds the cylinder if there is a gap when pushed pass on it.

open the cylinder and check the barrel stub the part of the barrel that is through the frame and is almost

in contact with the cylinder look for any cracks or splits.

close the cylinder and see if it moves back and forth if it feels loose look at the gap between the cylinder

and barrel stub should be less than the thickness of 20# sheet of paper

cock and try to push the hammer with your thumb not super hard but a firm push if it does not fall check

all cylinder bores once per hole this checks if someone has played with the sear / hammer or it even could be dirty but it needs to be checked.

cock and try to rock the cylinder or if you have to move it for it to lock in pass on it try on each bore in

cylinder check serial number make sure its not altered.

in revolvers made after the 50's there is a hammer block safety it rides with the hammer in order for the

pistol to fire your finger has to be on the trigger it gets removed by some to get a BETTER trigger

this is a bad idea it is a GOOD safety feature a way to check if you are not able to recognize it,

cock and holding the hammer with your thumb pull the trigger back and hold it slowly release the

hammer till it's down holding the pistol side ways so you can watch the hammer look between the recoil

shield and the cylinder you should see the firing pin sticking out.

slowly release the trigger you should see the hammer move back and the firing pin go back until you

can no longer see it. this is the hammer block moving back into place.

we use to cock the revolver and stick a pencil eraser first into the barrel then tap the hammer till it

dropped the hammer if the pencil did not move it was in order to see if the firing pin works on a transfer

bar system cock it put in the pencil and pointing in a safe upward direction pull the trigger and the pencil

will fly out meaning the firing pin is working.

decocker on an semi auto can be checked with a pencil also

Semi / Automatics are the most misunderstood by novice owners there are so many factors that make

one operate well that are user controlled firm and constant grip and finger control as well as placement

if you are a novice shooter do not try to bluff it through your local range should have someone who can

teach you the basics and watch and critique your grip form and handling.


pistols are like a wardrobe they need to fit grip fit, feel, angle, size, rake angle as well as

operation levers slide release safety lever / decocker and magazine release button or butt release like

European style.


Many buy a pistol because someone advised it from their experience or by seeing it in movies or in a

magazine this is like buying off the TV sometime it works and sometimes not

some have a elastic web of the hand witch can get bitten if the arch of the hammer spur

does not fit your hand and it sucks to look like your attempting suicide to push the mag release.

or if it takes both hands to drop the slide release and even worse you cannot get the safety off

with your firing hand you have to use your off hand.

and plastic framed handguns slide around and you have to readjust your grip

or the weight changes as the magazine empties and some do not have a safety which is not a negative

to me but some want a safety.

and some pistols are so large as some of the H&K, and desert eagle models


my only advice is if you are not wanting to train a lot then a 2+ inch barrel 5 shot revolver in 38 spl.

and find a grip that suits you revolvers

especially ruger and smith & wesson have many grips that adjusts the fit to

the user and laser grips make a novice more able to get on target regardless of light conditions.


Auto and semi automatic are more complicated but in most cases of feeding and last shot hold open or

a pistol that holds open when its should not a new magazine should fix it.

check if the barrel ramp has been altered especially if it looks to angels into the chamber

extraction is in most cases extractor spring is weak extractor worn or ejector may be worn cut short

bent or broken.

as in all pistols check the muzzle and barrel for dings and scratches as well as the slide grooves for

excessive scratching as this can show that it was not lubed so it was not taken care of.

try to push the hammer off when it is cocked also when cocked bump it and see if the hammer will fall

the most altered or gunsmithed pistol is the colt auto and its clones.

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Brass is the first and one of the most important parts of reloading


once fired brass in not a real accurate description no one but the original shooter knows

how many times it has been fired but if it looks good its probably fine.


first check for gravel and compacted dirt and remove

at this time check if it is relaodable


toss all steel and aluminum cases here is a statement that may be disputed but any case can be

reloaded there are always exceptions it is jut that dies must be custom and other considerations

and knowledge beyond that of the hobby reloader.

and in most cases it is so hard that unless you are off planet and need defense forget it.



boxer primer brass as it has a single flash hole in the center bottom.


Berdan has 2 small flash holes one on each side of the center bottom on the inside of the case

because it is difficult to reload and time consuming and takes special tools also finding Berdan

primers local is doubtful most do not reload unless they shoot a rare caliber and brass is hard to find

most steel cased ammo is Berdan another reason to trash them.



I polish my brass with the fired primer in, why? because if not it takes a dental pic to extract

compacted media {media is the name for polish bearing component} out of the primer pocket and

flash hole not exactly speedy.


polishing media is expensive but it can be used until it takes too long to polish about 4 loads of brass

and do not over polish it wears the media out so it is not cost effective.


If you are going to reload a lot then find a welding or sandblasting

supply company and buy crushed corncob {gives a bright shiny finish}


or crushed pecan or walnut or other nut hulls about half the size of a BB consistency

{more aggressive cleaning for really dirty brass and leaves a frosted finish}


I have used Brasso and numerous semi-chrome polishing pastes in the media a table spoon for a small

tumbler to 3 table spoons for a large tumbler also have used red rouge paste compound

do not use polishing compounds other than these some have aggressive carbide mixtures and are not

made for this purpose like valve grinding compound etc.

OK here is where some picky person hollers Brasso has Ammonia and it bad for brass

well if that were true my 30+ year old reloads would do something other than go bang

but they go bang and nothing else happens so go figure some people are just picky and like to

blow money to show off or place themselves in a self induced level BIG DEAL.

{tumbler is not an accurate name but that's what they call them vibratory tumblers}

if your going to polish about 3 to 5 gallons of brass at a time get a home concrete mixer

do not use the blades and plug the holes with car body / hole plugs

using enough media to cover well and blocks of wood like 2x2's cut into 6 inch sections

this helps to mingle well with the media.

cover the drum with plastic /plastic bag and tie it off so you don't cover your area in dust and you do not want to breath this use a mask

use a 20 gallon tote and build a screen out of 1/4 inch hard ware cloth you have seen them on

archaeological shows wood box screen stapled to the bottom and side rails long enough to be handles

shake media free.


now they are polished and you have emptied the cases of media and saved the media for the next


now you need to check for cracked and damaged cases as in ripped rims fired in semi or auto weapons

severely dented sometimes you can alter your weapon not to dent them

cracks in the neck or body trash these.

Some weapons like H&K have fluted chambers this causes longitudinal dents and make them not

reloadable once you have seen it you will understand.

Glock and I am not demeaning or claiming anything just relating they seem to have loose chambers

so the brass is enlarged so it can make it slightly more difficult to get started in the reloading die

this seems to happen more in the 40s&w caliber.

excessive stretching of brass reduces the amounts of reloadings this is not a concern for the company

making the weapon they are concerned with reliability glock has a reputation of the least failures to

feed in testing as far as I have read and it is due to the engineering and design

if you find reloading glock fired brass hard they are easy to pick out by their unique rectangular dent

with a dimple in the center firing pin indention and companies that reload roll size semi auto calibers because this is common now.

before running them through their presses.


for pistol very little needs to be done now sometimes a chamfer tool is used to ream the very inside

edge so the bullet will slide in easier or in the case of lead keep the edge of the case from shaving the

bottom of the lead bullet.

a primer pocket tool to clean smut out while doing this check if a stray piece of polishing media is

trapped in the flash hole now your cases are ready to reload.


for rifle a bit more thorough cracks can hide in the areas hard to identify like the ring of the neck

bottom edge of the web and inside edge of the rim a bit of soot will tell that there is a crack even after polishing and chamfering the inside neck and outside just to remove any burrs.

rifle case butts tell a story if the rim is deformed the loading is to warm or hot or the chamber is dirty

or rusty / pitted it might show on the body also this can sometime be remedied by a split wood dowel

with 4 ought steel wool and clean the chamber with a drill at low speed we do not want to change the

dimensions only clean do not extend into the riflings clean this in the normal

way with 4 ought steel wool on a bore brush this should have been checked before firing

many surplus rifles need to be inspected carefully dark spots in the bore mean rust has been there

and been cleaned but I would clean with 4 out steel wool the barrel and chamber

if it has excessive cosmoline remove wood furniture {stock etc} and clean with diesel making sure to

flush out the bolt I would advise disassembling the bolt for a thorough cleaning as diesel will loosen

old cosmoline but when it dries it will be sticky and can slow the firing pin to a degree where it fails to

fire the round this happens with older guns that used oils not fit for firearms.

and in between moving parts use a tooth brush and plastic pic cycle the action

dry fire using and empty shell especially if it is a rimfire as this can damage the chamber

if the stamping on the base of the case is blurry is a tell tale sign of high pressure as well as

smoke around the primer or the primer dent is flattened out or extrudes out and is blown / hole in it.

this means one of a few things but here are the basics high pressure your at the top of the reloading

table back off or your exceeding listed loads this is foolish.

the powder you are using pressure curve is wrong for this caliber chamber pressure is listed use it

if the same weight bullet using a different powder has a lower chamber pressure but similar velocity

use it instead or back off of your original loading.

temperature can have dramatic effects on ammo too hot hi pressure signs to cold delayed firing

the click bang this has been diminished to a degree with new powders but not totally so do not leave

your shells on the dash in summer and keep your shells inside your jacket near your body in extreme cold

until you reach your shooting area

{unless dangerous game are around then you need to be loaded but be safe}.


reloading manuals are tried and tested with numerous firearms and instruments science has

made the Elmer Keith / Roy Weatherby method of testing a unnecessary and dangerous

but these men were not fools they had ways that limited exposure to injury and used

known tough firearms in there testing well sometime they had a boo boo.

as computer programs can estimate before an actual shell is created a example of how it will perform

so do not do this it is silly and most experimental cartridges fail in the commercial market place

or dwindle into forgotten history.


2 must have manuals are Lyman and Lee others are based on if you use their brand of bullet or brass

and older ones have more information on lead bullet loading's for rifle and pistol


many enjoy reloading and find it relaxing and saves money my next topic will be on equipment I think?

Edited by juzcallmesnake

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this post is for the novice and hobby reloader, later I will post the least expensive way to reload


First LEE reloading equipment is very good and produces high quality ammunition for a fair price

other dies are complicated and the decapping pin is weak and have overly complicated

locking rings and are not what a person who is not a bench rest shooter needs

there are dies with micrometers good gravy there is always some tite azz trying to reinvent the wheel

once the die is set its not going to move and you need to check it once and a while anyway

the cheat in reloading is to have a factory shell with you weight bullet lets say 9MM 115 grain bullet

measure it and try to copy it


right now 1-7-2012 the Lee value 4 hole turret press kit is the best value IMHO


the hand case conditioning tools are inexpensive compared to other companies and work well

if you want a power unit RCBS TRIM MATE CASE PREP CENTER


Dial caliper {has dial face so you can see results in 2 ways} digital has batteries if we are

worried about not having batteries then why have them in your key testing equipment

like calipers and scales

RCBS has a great dial caliper made for reloading here are the specs

Fiberglass reinforced super polymid construction

Range of 0-6" to 0-150mm

Direct .001" readings

Gradations .001" increments with 0.100" per single revolution of dial

1.0mm bar scale

Dial adjustable to zero

Four way measurements: outside, inside, depth and step


Lee reloader press single stage 40 bucks

this is a good press to accomplish separate tasks I use it to prime my cases or deprime

for priming I use the ram prime with clean dry hands handling primers is not a taboo

I do not like priming gizmos that hold a box of primers or strips a lose primer is bad enough 100 primers

is a disaster waiting to happen i place 10 primers on a mouse pad rubber side up

and place them one at a time in the ram prime the ram prime give me a feel for

how the primer is seating after a while you will KNOW when its right and not.


Lee autodisk powder measure automatically weights and drops powder through the die


Lee safety scale this is a balance beam scale to double check your charge of powder

bullet weights etc...


Lee 3 hole turret press or the 4 hole 100 to 125 dollars

I use this and index it by hand It gives me control and if I need to stop i just cover it and come back


this is a sturdy press but not for large rifle


RCBS rock chucker is the press for large rifle to 50 cal

Lee challenger O frame press up to large magnum rifle leave 50 cal to RCBS

I like the control of reloading one at a time progressive can have timing issues and other problems

that make you crazy but when they work they are good but then nothing runs out at the same time

cases or bullets or powder and primers will run out then your adding this and that not for the novice or

if you need to stop in the middle of things



reloading dies 3 die pistol and you can have a factory crimp die also if you decide to use this option a lot

get the 4 hole turret press and they have both 3 die without crimp or 4 die with crimp


Forster Standard Bullet Puller for use with the Rcbs rock chucker or challenger press


a kinetic bullet puller looks like a hammer get an extra chuck

Quinetics Ultimate Model KINETIC Bullet Puller featuring the "New-Twist" chuck assembly



reloading manuals have become profit driven and product specific each bullet manufacturer

and brass maker has their own manual and unless you reload for a specific bullet the manual

is redundant you can download from the net manuals from most product sites like the saying goes

why buy the cow when you can get the milk free.

the 2 listed are need to have manuals for many reasons

Lyman reloading manual

Lee reloading manual


my advice on powder first read the manuals above and see what powder is listed

for pistol std and magnum rifle {lead loads} and shotgun bluedot and bullseye and unique also 2400

for rifle BLC2 IMR 3031 hodgdon H-335 and hodgdon H-4895 or IMR 4895

these will reload 90% of all shells and have proven accurate in military rifles calibers

and magnum as well as standard pistol loads a couple of the powders listed have some soot

well so what soot is much like graphite and your suppose to clean your weapons after shooting

so whats the problem if you do not want to get dirty stay at home and change the air filter often.


pressure curve is important to me some powders put you on the edge of SAMMI specs and do not give

any better performance / accuracy maximum velocity does not equate to better groups or one shot kills

bullet placement and repeatable performance on your part is the key;

we have all heard of a rifle barrel being shot out I know few people who can really say this

a rifle barrel has a long life span throat erosion is caused by not seating the bullet properly

overall length that allows burning gas to flow around the bullet before it seats in the rifling

or to hot a load consistently being fired or too slow a powder there are other factors but these

are the basics and it still take many many rounds to harm a barrel


if a rifle does not "shoot" many times the barrel is not supported properly/ tension in semi and auto's

or bolt actions the barrel is touching the stock or loose action stock combo

trigger control is you gritty 2 stage triggers do not change my groups these drop in BOLD and TIMNEY

triggers are great but try not to blame the equipment first.


pistols semi auto the action must repeat lock up barrel seat lock or it shoots a pattern instead of a group

but try not to blame the equipment ask a good shooter to try it first maybe a couple of good shooters


revolvers derringers or multiple bored guns each bore will shoot different usually not enough to tell

some can throw a flyer this is easily tested shoot a cylinder full if one hits out mark the cylinder with chalk

and try again if its the same bore you found your gremlin it's not important as long as it is not way out

derringers are notorious for one here one there some have the barrels slightly larger bore size

to reduce recoil as a tight target chamber barrel will test slightly higher in recoil nothing in a rifle

but a small derringer it can seem violent, some derringers are well made and heavy this helps recoil.


Just remember you do not get something for nothing more power more wear more recoil more powder

too little failure to feed in auto's or in revolvers when shooting standard loads your off X ring

some shooting sports require certain power levels bullet type or velocity to even competition

It is a great hobby and productive time spent


each person is different {that' news right} there is a sweet spot on your finger where you neither

push nor pull and your grips you use 2 hands or you should, may be too anticipatory of recoil

this is true in firing a rifle or a pistol.

just something for you to contemplate if you need to critique your shooting it is related to reloading

as if you do not have the basics of rifleman ship or pistol grip / stance you should try a range officer

who trains people as watching from the sideline helps them see what you can't


powder choices i listed above

my reasoning is in almost every shop that sells reloading components you will find these as staple

exotic or foreign makers sometimes must be ordered or intermittently stocked

and if in the future there is some problem to get X you have to build up another load

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here is the least expensive way to get into reloading and its flexible


Breach lock hand press kit and a 2 to 3 extra quick change bushings depends on if you get the

3 or 4 die set about 70 bucks


choice of caliber of dies 40 to 60 bucks


primer pocket tool reamer and length cutter stud and gauge all about 12 bucks


for pistol standard loads for magnum get the gas check design and you can shoot both mag and std

add a tumble lube bullet mold 2 cavity it is too hard to keep the 6 cavity warm enough to cast right


rifle 30 cal and up I would still get a challenger press they have 2nd's for less than 70 bucks

minor paint blems type stuff


gas checks as many as you think you need they do not go bad.


tumble lube for either it's great stuff and water soluble and easy.


for bolt rifle

still get a 2 cavity gas check bullet design mold


bullet sizer die 1 thousandths over .357 = .358 for revolvers and bolt rifle

semi auto pistol I try to size to regular because it seems to fit better some pistols use a gas system

and are listed as to not use lead bullets check the net before you buy bullet casting equipment.


semi auto rifle use gas to operate so I would not use cast bullets it can clog the gas system.


dial caliper


Lee powder balance beam scale


set of LEE powder dippers for manual measuring but recheck with scale


lee handloading book


the only thing I would add is a single stage reloader press or the challenger listed above you do not

need both for 30 caliber use the challenger press minimum


I have used a coffee cup warmer to keep my bullet mold warm in case i interrupt casting warm molds

cast a clean full figured bullet irregular or ripples in the lead show signs of too cool lead or mold.


one thing to remember lead is like grease it does not like water or moisture start from a cold pot

and make sure everything is dry and you wont have any troubles

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I am not a chemist nor a metallurgist


so I look to those who have blazed a trail and these web sites should help you understand

and use lead and its alloys.

I would save and print all this information I could there may be a day when it's not available.

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this is very easy but I thought i should spend a moment on it


A balance beam scale


it comes in parts


a weigh PAN

A PAN support looks like a pan but has a hook to hang from the beam

the BEAM

the BODY


some equipment differs and you should download the product information file

from the manufacturer it will explain set up and adjustment


once set up you place the empty PAN on the PAN SUPPORT

on left side is the adjustment weight coarse adjustment in 10 grain increments

and on the right of the fulcrum is the fine weight adjustment in1 and 1 tenths of a grain


some are a bit different but for the sake of brevity set both the coarse and fine to zero

if the beam is not balanced use the foot and screw it up or down to adjust to zero

now your are ready to weight.


first make sure all your bullets are one type and weight weight one now you know

never guess or what is written on a box test it your self


for the powder you have or have chosen look up the data if you are new to reloading

understand that a small fire extinguisher and safety glasses are mandatory next



1. primers brands are different close but not exact in power standard primers can be used

for either standard or magnum loads if a magnum primer is listed it means if you use a

standard primer your load will not produce the power level listed and some powder

may not be burned so it will be more soot less speed and power.


2. a magnum primer equals about 1 extra gran of powder, the general rule is if you use

magnum primers in a standard load reduce the load 1 grain.

rifle and pistol primers are not the same a rifle has a thicker cup and takes more

force to fire and a pistol may not have the force to ignite the rifle primer.


3. when you change any component as in brand of primer or type powder weight type

bullet lead bullets are different than jacketed use the proper data.

start from a lower reloading data if you are near the top range of your powder data


4. A blue pill load was a load 10% over max to test if a firearm could fire without damage

this was to test both the pressure curve and the other components for failure

DO NOT BE FOOLISH loading over book specifications is dangerous no powder has the

same properties a dangerous spike in pressure for many reasons will destroy a gun

or shred your hand if you want more power buy a larger caliber a .380 is never going

to equal a 44 mag in a standard made pistol I am sure some moron is trying but

that is what people do and they pay the price.


5. check to make sure your primers are seated before you load powder and bullet if it

is high use your bullet puller and disassemble the shell and reload do not I repeat

do not seat a primer after it is loaded or use it in a firearm.

a high primer in a gun can fire before the breach is fully shut and can kill you


6 Reloading has been done for hundreds of years Black powder is reloading every time

you fire you must reload for another shot in metallic cartridge reloading we use a case

it is simple as long as you follow the rules and safe the warnings above are to insure

you do not take it lightly and respect reloading components they are not toys

do not smoke or have an open flame do not touch with oily hands a primer or powder

it reduces or destroys their power or use keep in their original containers as they are

made for these items static and humidity have adverse effects keep in a cool dry place


7. when using any new or unfamiliar component or equipment take time to read and

understand the

proper way to use it never bluff your way through you can damage components or

ruin the equipment or worse hurt your self.


8. only have a small portion of components like powder and primers out the rest have

stored and or closed I use a lee auto disk powder measure it measures by volume

and holds about 1/2 cup of powder that is about all you need exposed I only have

a box of primers out at one time this is 100 and I place on the mat only 10 at a time

or so and close the box and move it to the corner of the desk.

I have had only 1 primer pop in reloading I was distracted and it had been put in the

seater cup sideways as I attempted to seat the primer it squished it and it popped

lucky I never had more than what i list above on my desk no stray spark caused

more of a problem.

the best way to explain primer explosion is a firecracker like a lady finger now imagine

at your elbow or within 2 foot 100 of these at once and the plastic container exploding

not good now include the fire from the powder it has seldom happened but I keep my

powder measure lid on and another reason I do not use a hand primer It is rare as

chickens teeth but it happens and I have seen it only a couple of times so beware.


9. primers in my life have not degraded I have fired ammo as old and much older than I am

I have powder that is 35 years old and still fires as advertised never make the mistake

and throw out components if you want to make them inert place primers in a can

never glass and pour oil on them as they are small swish around a few times and let them set and swish around again now you can dispose of them powder is weird wetting will

not absolutely kill it fired powder is not all burned sweep a range and put a small pile

and it will burn furiously wet powder when it dries is not as good but still dangerous

oil may change it but fire will make it burn hotter so respect powder it is not a toy

Empty brass if you want to make it unusable for some reason pour bleach over

it and let it set or crush it in a vice like cracked or split cases.



10, Anything you take for granted will come back to haunt you this is a life lesson.

every year at many ranges someone blows up a gun most times they are displayed

on the wall most times it is the wrong ammo for the gun or a barrel obstruction

but once in a while a reload or a nut reloader blows up his gun not following rules

wrong ammo 38 auto looks like a 38 super it is for semi automatic handguns

i have seen people try to use these in a 38 special and also 38 smith and wesson

is NOT I repeat NOT a 38 special just because it is a smith and wesson and says

38 read the rest of it it could be something other than special but generally not

then there is 38 short and long colt and others so know what your buying in a firearm

and know for sure the caliber.

20 gauge fits in a 12 gauge and then a 12 will fit right behind it and boom seen this too

when using a gun watch what your doing, an 8MM looks like a 30-06 drive to the range

and a day of fun is wasted cause it ain't going to fit.

pay attention be organized keep your ammo with your gun mine are stenciled on the

ammo box and the rifle or shot gun is standing on it pistols too one shelf for one caliber

or better a 20MM can with ammo gun mags & holster belt and accessories all together



I have setup reloading companies and company arsenals

as well as personal vaults I got to the point where I used wood or metal athletic lockers

because people are not organized and mix ammo and weapon accessories up

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Recently I had gotten a BPI {ballistic products inc.} electronic powder measure I like it BUT I do have mechanical


backup as well as Lee powder scoops and for 30 bucks you can't beat it.



I had considered the best Reloading books for the volume of information in one manual



A couple of my favorite manuals



A great online resource you can print



Something to remember is many reloading manuals other than these are product specific and in reality that means squat


a X caliber Xbullet X weight X charge of powder  may have some variations due to coeffiencecy  so thinking


a bullet of a couple of grains different made by X has to have it's own data from their book is not the case.


Each rifle is different and shoot fine or totally different with the same loads


Most people have less than 3 calibers so specific load data that comes from all the companies is preferential to a volume of information.


Lyman's older manuals have the most data for cast lead bullets and older calibers for older guns as well as new guns that can take MORE.


Now that the internet is available try to find diagrams and instructions to help clean and repair as well as reloading data.


as a side note anyone who has annealed brass can also do it with molten lead if you cast also.

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I actually got my start with an old Lee Loader that came with a revolver that I bought. I loaded about a gillion rounds with this little loader and got the reloading bug from it. I eventually obtained a lee loader in all of my must have calibers. From that lee loader to a Lyman turret press and a RCBS heavy duty green single stage press. Then I got one of Lee hand held presses. I always wanted a Dillion but never could quite cough up the money for it. I have a Lyman balance scale, a Rcbs ballance scale, and a digital scale. I throw with a Lyman or RCBS powder measure or just use a set of Lee dippers and a Lyman powder dribbler. Throw in Lyman case trimmer and at one time a big old Lyman pumpkin vibrator brass polisher and I was good to go.


I still think that the Lee system is the best starting system there is. When you buy their dies they include a shell holder, a dipper and loading info. For getting your feet wet it is hard to beat. Reloading is one of those things that can be as simple or complicated as you want to make it. The rounds that I loaded with the Lee Loader shot just fine for plinking and informal shooting. They were mild to middle of the road in power and using a dipper can be every bit as consistent as a powder measure...the problem is that your loads are limited to what the dipper throws. 


When I started shooting a lot and then got involved in long distance and fine target shooting I had to move to more productive and scales and measures that would allow finer control of powder loads that were variable. For survival purposes you don't need 1/2 degree MOA ammo! Also you will have more time on your hands than you will know what to do with. Reloading is a dandy way to use a little of that time.


If say you have a 308 bolt action, if you have a set of lee dies and a hand press or a Lee loader in that size then all you need is a little know how, primers and a bullet puller to convert any 30 cal cartridge to use in your 308 brass. It won't be real pretty maybe and might not be the safest thing you do BUT the lack of ammunition can be worse than anything you might do with a little careful seat of the pants reloading.

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what you posted is at the very core of survival reloading with manuals we can extrapolate what the load might be as well as an idea


of what powder IF people do their homework now I pick up every manual, pamphlet and guide sheet I can just in case I need the information


But in reality, most every caliber can be reloaded with these powders 2400, Blue dot, unique, and BLC2 or 3031 or the new Varget  for rifle


with these you can load .410 to 10 a 17 Remington to 458.



Brass cases in rifle can be reloaded many times in straight wall pistol until they split so have 10 X the primers as reloadable brass cases.


In a 3 gun battery of pistol, shotgun & reduced cast bullet load rifle all a person would need is Unique as far as powder of course you would need


The bullet molds, gas checks for cast bullets, primers dies and lee powder dippers for grins, I would also have a LEE hand priming tool.


Lee makes LEE LOADERS in most common calibers everything in a 1X4X5 inch box most people can load 50 shells an hour with a bit of practice.

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This is my personal view, yours may vary.

Those starting out into reloading with tight limited fund$.

I would get one of these 2 first.

The Classis Lee Loader is the cheapest at $40 now days price.

I started with one of these about 35 years ago, which I paid $8 back in the day.

All you needed was a rubber mallet, brass, powder, primer & bullet plus load data and you are good to go.

Next is the Lee Breech Lock Hand Press at $46 you will need dies as well.

Both of these items do not require a reloading bench/table.

They a small enough that I keep them in a BOB if wanted.

When more funds are available you can get into a progressive press.

I own a few reloading systems now, the 2 stated above & these as well.

A CH H press.

A Lyman single stage press.

A RCBS Ruck Chucker press.

A RCBS partner press.

2 Dillion presses a 550 & 650 both progressive.

And a Mec 12 gauge press.

Their are reasons why people reload their own ammo.

For some it's to save money & to purest, to make custom loads that factory ammo don't offer.

I do it to save money & make custom loads.

One important thing is always read & get the proper load reloading data for that cartrage you plan on loading.

Powder charge are in GRAINS & not Grams.

One member at a club that I belong to, loaded a 357 in grams. LOL. Blew up his python. KA BOOM!

He was a Morron, he even blew up his primmer tube holder a couple of times as well on his Dillon press. 

Another thing do not mix powders when making a load. Your asking for trouble, BIG Trouble.

The best advice I can give is start slow when reloading if your just starting out to reload.

You certainly do not want any surprises.

Reloading is another hobby that I enjoy, but be careful at all times. A mistake can be deadly & could cost you your life if not done correctly.

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Damn Snake you and me went to the same school of reloading powders! 10gr of unique is like a magic load that will work in almost any rifle behind a cast bullet!! It is also great for any moderate load in handgun calibers. 2400 started out as a rifle powder then became a premier powder for the magnum loads. It will also work well in most shotgun load.


It's funny, I got my new Backwoodsman Magazine in the mail yesterday and they had an article about just this thing. Unique and 2400 as do it all powders. Throw in one of the better rifle powders for hotter jacketed loads and you have it all covered.


I LOVE reloading manuals. I went to the NRA show in Houston last year and brought home a LOAD of manuals and info from ALL the various ammunition, firearms and reloading stuff. It was GREAT. I got to handle every weapon that I've ever drooled over and got scads of data. I especially like OLD manuals because I'm an old fart and still like the old loads and such that I'm familiar with.


I used to load up a few SPECIAL purpose loads for different applications. For my wife to carry I loaded up some 38 specials with herco powder and out of that snubnose the flash and concussion was amazing. If she had to use it in close quarters I told her to point close her eyes for a second and pull the trigger. They were going to be deaf and blind and she could finish them with the second shot. It was like tossing a flash/bang into a dark room!!! The Herco couldn't burn in that short barrel and the ball of fire out the muzzle was the size of a beach ball and just kept expanding.


This was when we were first married and she had never shot a handgun. Latter I down loaded and taught her proper stance and technique. In the end she and my Daughter both had more natural ability than I did. I'm not real sure that she wouldn't be more deadly than me if she had my Ruger auto target pistol. She can put 5 holes in the X ring so fast it sounds almost like a machine gun going off.


The thing that I loved about reloading was the pleasure that I got when I found JUST the right load for one specific weapon. Every gun is different. Some times even the same brand and model would have a bit of preference from one gun to the next. Some times a 1/10 of a grain would shrink the group size to that magic one hole group from an average 1" group.

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LMAO well, Damn I found many loads that did not work well at night with similar results.


There was a thread on fictional books  I never have time I read manuals or find how to books


I read plenty of fiction. Biographies  and history in my childhood mostly when the weather was too bad


To go out , otherwise I had too much to do working hunting &  fishing as I recall we had 2 channels on TV


Mostly they sucked It was rare that I would look forward to watching anything except the old horror movies


Like the creature from the black lagoon  tarantula those were good times, my father would bust a gut laughing at me I think,


most times I would be fishing at night unless to severe weather or night hunting for coons and predators.


and any hunting season I was working and hunting I have been known to do both at once.


Hell I wore out a Benjamin pump on birds and rabbits.


If I don't have a keg of Unique  I feel naked even when I was in the service my stuff was safe at home


My father did not reload his tools were a 357 python and a 37 Ithaca and a .401 Winchester and he always carried


5 boxes for the 401 and 2 -25 round boxes of buck and at least 2 boxes of 50 rnds of 357 I never loaded for his work guns.


I loaded for model 9 shot 22 H&R 10 smith an Astra and a old Webley  rifles were a 7 Mauser and 30-06 I would borrow my old man's 45


We had so many it was weird not to open a drawer and not see one or a corner the back door had a shotgun a 22 and a 1917 Enfield


The one oddly enough, I do not recall was any lever guns  I an sure we had at least one, but it was not the pick of the litter.


I learned late the wonders of cast rifle and shot shells I messed with but was not serious as I had plenty of friends that did.


and shotgun shells were like 22's fairly cheap and bought them at the end off season and on sale by the case,  for the next year.


only one drawer in the kitchen had a pistol my mother did not like her draw space cluttered with OUR stuff.


She did not like the laundry room with fishing tackle we had to keep it at the boathouse or in one of  the boats under the car port.


All I know is I kept Unique and I think it was 3031 in the shed in a wood box and never had a problem even years later primers in an ammo can 


metal tools I kept in a big tackle box I kept in my closet. and never had but a few not pop or my loading  tools or widgets  get rusty.


The start of every season I disassemble my dies and clean them with 4 ought steel wool and a split dowel and a wire brush I have


A chemical that I spray on that stops metal from rusting and all my molds I keep in an ammo can with treated paper or newspaper.


Humidity will rust your tools as long as you don't let it get away from you some maintenance and TLC will set it right.


I have posted it before but there are 7000 grains in a pound most 12 ga  uses between 20 and 30 ++ grains a shell


most pistol uses 4 to 7 grains cast bullets in rifle like you said Damn 10++ grains so having a 4 to an 8 pound keg is not out of line


same with 2400  green blue and red dot are all about the same in my mind now like I have said a keg is a good thing


I have other powders like 4198 and 4227 H110 etc. But if push came to shove those could be trade stock, and have been.


I understand your MAGIC load I have run into that that is why I keep a notebook on the different bullets and weights


and powders as you mention may work well in one and not another I will take it a bit further and also say that weight of bullets


has caused me to try a different powder to get the performance I wanted.


I like a load that is not hot by the load tables, lower pressure curve and  fill the case as much as possible 


Without a compressed load  and I want it to be consistently accurate in heat and cold etc.


from all I have seen I want to do some real in depth testing with Varget it looks very promising on all of my requirements


with less temperature variance.


Load a max load in the winter and shoot it in dead of summer and you can feel & see the difference in some powders,


I like a heavier bullet in 308 I like the 165 grain BT more than  147 bullets / 150 grain certain weights are better for long range


And ballistically more stable, of course, there is a breaking point where you start backing up in one or the other distance or accuracy.


As many before me have said you don't get something for nothing. and has to be considered in your use and firearm,


do not use heavy bullets in semi rifles unless you read up on the rifle and if your hunting BIG game you might consider the heavier


bullet as you can for your caliber at reasonable range and accuracy  for you of course.

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Cheapest easiest way to start reloading ammunition


Download free load data on the PDF for life thread one of the posts has many links to load data.


it comes with loading data and all you need it a plastic or rawhide hobby hammer


These dippers come with a chart using one or a combination you can produce any load in any manual.


This hand priming tool needs a shell holder, you can get from


this is for 308 you need to get the caliber specific one except the Chamfer Tool and primer pocket tool  


One step further make your own bullets if you have a magnum pistol or a high powered rifle go with a gas check design IMO


Everyone makes mistakes and components can be reclaimed here is a bullet puller that is inexpensive.


With the price of ammo now this is a smart way to save money pistol shells can be loaded many many times.

Picky people want all one head stamp no nickel only X company it is B.S. Mixed brass shoots just fine,

The brass does not have to be polished it looks better, but all you have to do is wipe it off grit and grime scratches

dies eventually but it that take a while I used metal polish on a rag now and again.

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Holy bat crap a friend wanted some bullets / projectiles man are they proud of them a box of 50 for 25 to 45 bucks a box

100 count boxes are 28 to 39 dollars.


Powder is hit and miss as are primers even some of the brass for non NATO calibers is high some you cannot find.


Nothing I like is available most is OUT OF STOCK something is going on by now you would figure the stock would be back to normal.


22 LR OMG not funny, well it is not like I did not TELL YOU SO and I hate being right this is ridiculous.


Well, not really the price / cost of brass, copper, lead and nickel are all up, then add in the cost of forming shipping power costs are up


we have a perfect storm of increasing prices.


So don't look for prices to stabilize or drop anytime soon, even if metal prices fall it will take as long as it went up to retract or at least


Level of course the new normal may be the prices as they are.


The good old days of going out and blowing off a couple hundred rounds may be a thing of the past for most people.

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Cast bullets are not too bad yet. I was looking at getting 500 cast SWC from Midway and they weren't too awful. That said, I'm really glad that I have several thousand rounds for my 357 and a 5 gallon bucket full of 22lrs. I watch Wally World and pick a couple boxes of CCI mini mags every month or so. I have a couple of "sardine cans" for my Nagant and more shotgun shells than I can carry in a wheel barrow. I did all this before 911 just in case.

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Yesterday I talked to one of my supply shop about some powder I needed.

I was looking for a 8lb keg of Winchester 231 & they haven't received any for about 9 1/2 months now.

They receive shipments of all kinds of powder, every month.

Their prices haven't changed at all for the past 3 years now, which is great for now I'm thinking.

Did ordered some 800X for pick up next week. I'm on my last 1/2 lb of it.

Got the last 4,000 pcs of Zero Projectiles today from another supplier.

Ask about getting 20,000 pcs more & the owner said that he couldn't guaranty anything for the rest of this year & everything he ordered is backed ordered.

One thing I noticed today when making my tour of gun shops, all the surplus ammo of 7.62X39 ammo were gone.

Thinking that the Russian & Ukraine issue might have something to do with the crates flying of the store floor.

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I wanted to touch on forming brass if or should you have a caliber that is hard to find or is no longer made you may want to consider


die forming there are many calibers that can be formed from basic 30-06 all the way down to 45 ACP


Here is an easy one buy a form - trim die from brownells or midway as well as many other fine suppliers I like 8MM Mauser


so let us say I ger the 8MM mauser form - trim die put in my press and squish a 30-06 into it WALA ALA peanut butter sandwich

it is now a 8MM Mauser or 8 X 57 after you trim it to length of course, whatever brass is sticking out cut it off with a hacksaw.


if you need 25-06 use 30-06 and squish into a 25-06 sorm- trim die trim excess and there ya go a 25-06


Some calibers need to be done in stages from let us say 30-o6 to 270 to 25-06 the reason this may need to happen is due


To far too many being damaged trying to form in a single step.


You may need to experiment, I tried first to seize them without annealing using a propane torch {standing deprimed shells in water 2/3 of their


Height and heat till red tip into water to quench and that softens the neck & shoulder to dead soft }


Some calibers require fire forming or actually firing a bullet at low pressure { I use low velocity cast bullet data I do not waste jacketed bullets on this.}


Here is a book that anyone who decides or wants to know as much as they can about calibers reforming starting loads original bullet weights


And many other tidbits not generally found in most loading manuals the book is called,




some cases have no parent case available today so some interesting techniques to make a shootable cartridge is needed.


It is all a matter of how much you love grandpas old smoke pole but it takes only 20 cases to be able to make 100 to 200 loaded bullets


at 20 rounds a throw. the average case if it is not loaded at max is good for many reloadings.


eventually you will have a work bench that looks like a mad scientists lair but hey I like it.


here is a basic list


connectic bullet puller


Dial calipers


I like lee case tools because they are so inexpensive the

case mouth reamer

primer pocket cleaner

case trimmer

case length gauge

case lock stud works on drills

and cutter


caliber specific loading dies


form-trim dies caliber specific


stuck case remover


military crimp remover


case lube & pad or a spray on case lube


Mica powder I use it in the neck of the case


the least press is a LEE "O" ring press for rifle the I frame press is good for pistol and priming


LEE priming tool for a press or a LEE auto prime or both


some LEE decapping cups and extra decappers


loading blocks


som MTM cases for finished formed brass or loaded ammo


I very much like the LEE military crimp die for every caliber you load


a case tumbler to clean them but it is not nessecary  but it makes you brass look good


other items are a powder trickler for rifle the more consistent the load the more accurate


volumetric powder measure


I also keep some chemicals like alcohol


Flits or a semichrome metal polish


blue lock tite


a decent cleaning kit


a set of gunsmith screw drivers


a small ultra fine stone 


I also have small and large stes ot hex wrenchs as well as as wrenches for the die and one for the decap nut as well as a crecent wrench 


then a brass hammer a double ended rubber / plastic no marring  and some brass bar to strile with so I do not scar metal parts.

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Well it is a little know fact that you can do something about muzzle flash other than put on a flash hider but the amount of searching f


or the information is long so I will give you a hint it is in the last paragraph of this link it is short and you will have to do some more research


this works on rifle and pistol.

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Flying boogers batman


First, I want to warn that ANY object leaving a barrel can injure blind maim or kill, I remember an actor was goofing off and shot himself  with a blank and it killed him GRAVEYARD DEAD firearms are no joke teach everyone your responsible for the same.

only a dumbazz points a gun at someone or unknown backstop unless it is a self defense or life and death scenario.


For grins, I wanted to post about WAX bullets these are good for hunting pigeons under a bridge at night with a flash light check with your Game warden and laws first BUT if there are no rules it is up to you this is also a alternative to using paint ball units to scare off garbage Scavengers that you do not want to terminate with extreme prejudice.


Depending AGAIN on local laws it is still a shell and firing in a community can be illegal, so check first if you live in the country


it keeps them critters away and leaves a welt and I am one that knows animals are as smart as people now they cannot do complicated math but they do not forget a good sting on the butt either.


Using some bar wax or make some as long as it is about 3/4 of an inch thick prime your shells press through like a cookie cutter and keep them nose down and in a cool area as wax can melt and kill the primer over time.


Some practice to see how they shoot and the max range and you can know your limits, please use humane head shots on small game or butt shots to scare as with any blunt trauma in the chest and intestinal area it can cause death to the animal and that is waste


In fact, you don't have to strike you can kick up dirt on their butt first and if that is not enough of a deterrent take it a step further


These can be very accurate and good for younger shooters on cans,  paper targets and spinners at close range


Have fun be safe


P.S. you can float shot in the wax but do not use steel BB's they will scratch the bore !!!

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Holy crap was in a gun shop and boy sticker shock was in the air bullets brass and powder & primers were astronomical 


1 pound of powder 40 bucks primers 55 bucks per thousand bullets 50 to 100 count boxes 25 to 40 bucks a box


Brass was hit and miss most miss only a handful of calibers.


time to break out the pellet rifle NOT pellets are not cheap either add in shipping and damn it is like shooting a 22 a couple of years ago.


Buckshot is about a buck a round crazy ain't it.

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WaHOOO found some 22's in my tackle box LMAO "knew they were there just had to make a spectacle of myself."


One thing I would like to point out I decided to load a few and got out the rifle dies and after sizing one I seated a bullet


so I would have a test round and it did not FIT OH SH*T well in my zeal I forgot to place the ram all the way up with the shell holder in place


and screw the die down till it touched and back off the ram and screw in a 1/4 turn more so do not load a bunch before you test


your sizing and overall length etc. double check your bullet weight and charge weight.


if you load straight walled pistol theses are simpler than bottleneck cases but each has it's specific setup issues test rounds need to be colored


so you do not accidentally place a LOADED round in the chamber unknowingly.


In some instances, you may want to fill the case with any media like cotton or foam so the bullet when being used as a test does not


get jammed back in the case and screw it up.


as far as loading a test round you do not have to crimp the bullet and you can pull it once your satisfied they are within limits and use that bullet


in a shell for fouling shots " first shots from a cold bore or unfired clean / may have residue of bore cleaner left"


or just to check your zero on scope or iron sights.


pulled bullets from loaded rounds can shoot well and some may not it is a matter of trial and error some have thin jackets and this


can ripple the bullet causing erratic groups sometimes the nose is deformed and this can cause problems for accuracy at longer than


normal than hunting distances.


I have fired some bent nosed bullets and had surprising accuracy and you can alter the seater die nose punch if it is causing


your soft nose bullets deformation upon seating.

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