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Guest kevin

HI-JACK THIS THREAD...flint knapping

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Guest kevin

i just finished my first grown-up bow and intend to make my own arrows too. that led me to trying my hand at flint knapping.....epic fail.

one of you that knows more than i do on the subject(about all of you i'm sure....reg5 for sure) take over or start a new thread on the subject...please include how to choose the proper stones(and how to identify them.......i'm about done on preps , never will be on skills,,,,thanks

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Kevin, knapping is an art....lol. I would imagine there are some on here with ALOT more knowledge than me, but I know some basics. It's kind of like splitting firewood, you must watch for the "grain" and split along the natural fault lines in the flint. A common issue (personal experience) is using a tool that is too hard and breaks the flint in an unnatural fault. Deer antler is a good choice and if you know anyone down there with fallow deer (european deer), their antlers are even better (much more dense than whitetail or mule deer).

use small taps (just hard enough to break the flint) to form a rough shape and then use a small chisel (brass worked well) to very gently crumble the flint into the final shape (becareful about cutting yourself...a leather scrap piece as a hand guard is best. I am not the most osha friendly practitioner) as you don't hit the flint, but hold it and use hand force to chip the final shape.

If you can find one of the Buckskinning Rendevous in your area, I haven't been to one yet that didn't have a knapper there plying their art. A hands on tutor will be much better than anything I can tell you on here. I know a few others have commented on the forum and the articles about knapping and hope they can explain it better than me.

A few links that may be helpful...

http://flintknappingtools.com/

http://flintknappinginfo.webstarts.com/uploads/Tools.pdf

http://www.uiowa.edu/~osa/learn/ancient/flint.htm

http://www.missouritrading.com/rock.htm

http://flintknappinginfo.webstarts.com/uploads/Stone.pdf

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kevin

 

Flint normally found in creeks and rivers beige outside almost looks like dirty chalk interior is milky brown to slightly green some almost black semi translucent and it fractures like glass slate an obsidian can be used.

what I have found is is round to flat oval when you crack it it has the ring of dirty white and the center looks

almost wet slightly shiny slick I have seen some stuff made of blue stone and other stone as well as natural

formed wash stone.

 

WEAR Safety glasses

I would use a geologist hammer square face square to a point pick the size of a common hammer to a bit larger than a tack hammer once fractured you should have one side depending on size if it is a arrow, knife,

spear or tomahawk

 

most I have seen use a antler point and a piece of leather about a foot square need it soft but thick oiled

I would buy a piece of elk hide very resistant to punctures.

Use this on your thigh you want give of the leather and your flesh underneath holding the edge of the flint

toward the leather and taking the antler point and nipping the edge rolling your wrist against the force of the antler point chipping flats is done with another piece of flint or a copper or metal bar rounded edges .

and you clip it at an angle with deft short movements imagine flicking a fly off an orange slightly hitting the orange. there are some pics I think you will get it some of these guys use real tools here are some links.

 

like non tempered glass mound it fractures with the grain you have to play with it to figure how the grain runs

it is an art.

 

http://flintknapping.com/gallery.htm

 

http://www.knappingnewmexico.com/photos2.html

 

some videos

 

http://www.knappingnewmexico.com/Youtube.html

 

and you have the patients of jobe cause I have made a few and it ain't worth it to me I can cast them out of wheel weights as flat or target points in wood in fact if you call LEE they can make a bullet mold of a hollow base

bullet with the point you want for what they make any of their special molds for.

 

then there is the Roman way out of copper we have copper hard tubing to use but to each his own.

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Or, if you are handy, you can make your own mold for metal arrow heads. For very small game (rabbits, etc) you can pound an arrow head out of a brass ctg. case. Too soft to use on large game.

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JCMS, I think we read from the same book...lol.

 

Vis, nice add on with the cartridge cases.

 

Another way for some cheap arrowheads for small game is tin cans. I prefer soup/veggie cans as opposed to pop cans, but anything works in a pinch. This will also be a good use for abandoned vehicle body panels if an event takes place and the body panels are heavier and will take medium game.

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hell my father showed me that stuff I hated reading except when it was to wet or cold outside.

 

Iused to read the old horror and scifi novel like green slime day of the triffids robot killer etc.

even the classics huck finn sherlock holmes Shakespeare, dickens tale of two cities etc....

even some poetry my mother loved to read.

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tempered glass is made to shatter in small square chunks not shards that slice like knifes

 

anything tempered can be brought back by reheating to X temp fo X time and it will go back to its original state

 

if you try to use tempered glass it will shatter into chunks

 

glass would be better to melt to form IMO glass is hard to control when you cannot see a grain.

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Has anyone used thick glass...?

 

ok so it may break,but tempered??

 

Just asking/ok so wear a mask if you try to grind it..

 

ive seen several videos we its suggested to use bottle bottoms for beginers.

they even show you the easy way to get to the bottom w/o busting glass everywhere

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we used to cut glass bottles with a cord and tape to keep the cord aligned wrap cord once around start

pulling back and forth till the cord starts smoking and drop the bottle into coll water it should pop.

 

or find a cheap diamond turn it upside down epoxy it in a piece of tubing and use it for a glass cutter.

I do not care for the steel wheel ones.

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