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Ready?4What?

M193 Range Fodder Recipes

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I'm looking for a good reloading recipe for reproducing M193 55gr range fodder. I want to get started reloading, but dont want to go through the trial and error of working up a load. I'm not interested in the expiramentation or the benchresting and chronoing. I just need basic FMJ to blow in practice and handling skills for my wife and I. Anyone have any good recipes and good places to find components for a deal?

 

Will be shooting from a AR with 16" 1X9 chrome lined lightweight barrel. And using mixed once fired 5.56 brass.

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I'm not trying to be lazy or unsafe. Getting together a trip to the firing range is a major ordeal. No local ranges here. So I only get to the range a few times a year. It would take years to work up a load from scratch. So, I'm trying to get straight to the point. I dont need to work out the accuracy to the nearest .001 inch. :-)

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I'm a big fan of Varget powder. Use 25.5 gr. with a 55 gr. bullet. I'd also suggest picking up a reloading manual (E-Bay) or getting on some of the manufacturers web sites. They can give you some good reloading data, too. Have fun reloading!

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I just did a little digging. using data that I found on some reloading forum about trying to duplicate the M193. I added up the costs. I didn't look into the results or effectivness. I was just looking for a general cost per 1000. This guy was using 26gr of Accurate 2230. Prices were from Midway USA

 

1000 Remington 55 FMJBT $87

1000 CCI 400 primers $35

1000 Lake City 5.56 Brass $220

4lb Accurate 2230 $80

 

I figured that 7000gr was 1lb, so I would need 4lbs to get 26000gr needed to load 1000 rounds.

So this adds up to $422 before shipping. Does this sound about right? I can buy 500 Federal M193 in a plastic waterproof can for $199. So $420 including tax gets me 1000 loaded rounds locally.So basicly I can reload for about the same price, but add alot of time (single stage press) and $$$ for gear to get started.

 

Since I am not looking to build up custom loads, this may well be a waste of time and money. I know that you can reuse the brass 3 or 4 times, but how long will that take to pay for itself since I shoot less than a 1000 a year?

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You might want to consider using Hodgdon H335 (more info here). Your starting load would be 23.0 gr and max load would be 25.3 gr. See here for some online data.

 

The thing that is killing you here is buying brass. If you had 1k of once fired brass, you'd be ahead $220, and you can reuse 5.56 brass 6-8 times, depending on your load. Check here for brass to cut down that cost: brassmanbrass.com If you're willing to sort and swag your brass, you can get 1500 count of mixed 223 brass for $86. And of course, once you do get your brass, you will save that $200 or so every time you make a batch.

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Cool. Thanks. I have some brass, just not 1K worth. It is my understanding that you should never reload "range" brass. when I go to the range, I try to keep my brass seperate, but I lose most that gets mixed in with everyone elses...

 

1500 for $86 makes it a much more do-able deal...

 

I see that they have crimped primer brass. I thought crimped primers were noty reloadable... If they are reloadable, which do I need to get? Crimped, non-crimped?

Edited by Ready?4What?

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Range brass is generally a no go, unless you know the person who shot it and what it was (once fired? etc.) You can talk to people who are shooting and ask for their brass if they are just going to leave it, and ask the brand and if it's been reloaded before.

 

Crimped primer brass is not a problem, it just needs to be swagged to remove the crimp. Dillon sells a great tool, the Super Swage 600, but it's $100. The RCBS Primer Pocket Swager is $26, a little slower, but does a good job. Easiest is to get non-crimped brass and just load and go. I have a Dillon Super Swage, but I shoot a lot of military brass.

 

I will mark my brass to keep track of it, but I also have tuned my rifles to toss brass in a nice pile at 1 o'clock. If it's a match where I'm going to be running around and I know I'll loose my brass, I'll load with old brass and just loose it.

Edited by mr.smashy

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You might want to consider using Hodgdon H335 (more info here). Your starting load would be 23.0 gr and max load would be 25.3 gr.

 

What exactly is meant by starting load and max load. Why would you vary and how would you know to do it? I know for a match load you work different powder levels to acheive best accuracy, but I am looking for range fodder to blow in weapons drills. Mil surplus accuracy is fine.

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What exactly is meant by starting load and max load. Why would you vary and how would you know to do it? I know for a match load you work different powder levels to acheive best accuracy, but I am looking for range fodder to blow in weapons drills. Mil surplus accuracy is fine.
Starting load is the starting point(low #) and then you work up the load scale by.2-.5 grains till you get to the max, assuming that you don't have any bad pressure signs. It wouldn't hurt to read manual again, just to be safe. http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/index.cfm

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Ready,

it is not really necessary to 'work up' a load. Check the loading manuals, find something that shoots to your taste and use that load. A lot of folks get pleasure by 'working up' their loads and finding precisely the best load for their particular firearm.

 

If you're comfortable shooting store bought ammo, duplicate that load and you're set.

 

Just my not so humble opinion.

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