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Everything posted by onetime

  1. buried food gets dogs/coyotes/bears digging it up, attracting humans. Empty drums don't have that problem. Once shtf, you can use baited snares to deal with critters trying to steal your food. The drums should have 3-4" of gravel all around and under them, to prevent cracking caused by the freeze-thaw cycle. A double wrap of rat-wire will keep rodents out of your plastic drums. Metal drums corrode badly in just one year of burial. A couple of drum liners will (mostly) protect the rat-wire from corrosion.
  2. your BOL should be a spiderhole in the woods at your local water source. if shtf, you can extend it horizontally, so you can sleep in it. you should have empty, buried drums near your rental storage, so you can empty the storage the first night of shtf, having your stuff where nobody is going to find it. Few will be raiding the storage areas the first night of shtf, and the silenced 22 and subsonic ammo will deal with the few, if need be. Can't risk them shooting you in the back or following/stealing your stuff. Sucks to be them, wrong place/time.
  3. you dont need to own it in order to cache stuff there, cause you have to cache at night anyway, and be gone, leaving no sign, at dawn. in fact, you dont want you or your stuff to be anyplace known to be associated with you. Just ask the Branch Davidians or Randy Weaver about that! Big Brother can be ambushing you, stealing your stuff, etc. Dont risk it.
  4. anywhere north of the Mason-dixon line, other than Oregon. When you dont dare leave tracks in the snow, or send up smoke signals trying to stay warm, or make noise to cut-haul wood, best avoid cold areas in late fall, winter or early spring. To be noticed will be to get shot, if shtf.
  5. onetime

    Nuke map your home town.

    once a few nukes go off, the rest will probably land willy-nilly. Also, if quite a few hit any one given area, the wind patterns may well change, nobody knows what all effects might be noted.
  6. onetime

    Basic minimum kit for a planned day hike

    with the exception of the silenced rifle and the armor, I take the entire BOB, especially if it's in the mountains. I'd much rather have 15 lbs be "unnecessary" than badly need the 1-2 lbs of stuff that I aint got. I need the exercise and the practice and the experience/use of the gear, anyway.
  7. onetime

    When training can become SHTF

    knowing enough to take the right gear (like compass,notepad, pencil, watch, water, filter, headlamp, tarp, hammock, rental satellite phone, sleeping pills, big strong, competent friend) is a big help. :-)
  8. onetime

    You Tube

    the firing hole is for long term defensive positions, which you shouldn't be bothering with as a surivvalist, anyway. Best stick to darkness, a silencer, and subsonic ammo. 2-4 hits and vanish. repeat as needed. If you know how to use the E tool, it's far faster to use it like a pick and a hoe, scraping dirt out of a horizontal trench, piling it up, laying behind it, with your head towards the dirtpile. This can be done in a very few minutes in most soils if not hard- frozen.
  9. almost anyplace, climb the tallest thing around at night and you'll see lights. Start and tend a smoky fire, and in a day or so, somebody will come to check it out. If you're really remote, you might need a rental satellite phone for a few days, but most areas a cell phone works fine. If it's shtf, you're not going to be doing much of anything but hiding in a hole in the ground, during daylight hours, or the odds are very high that you'll get shot by some desperate thug or nutjob. So no chainsaw, no ATV, no fires in daylight hours, or at night except in a dakota pit. Leaving footprints in snow will be dangerous as aitch, as will firing un-suppressed shots or showing a light at night, or being in a building. almost everyplace, there's abandoned cars, or buildings, or at least, hay bales or fencing or culverts, or phone wire, etc, stuff that can be used and which is FAR superior to anything that can be bush-crafted. So just look around and move to where the stuff is, instead of beating yourself ragged trying to make lame, short term field expedients. Natural cordage falls apart from rot, burns easily, , wood objects are bulky, heavy, etc. Cache some modern items, so you dont have to lug them to your BOL and you'll be way ahead. I have lived out of a pack for weeks at a time, and the great majority of the time, it sucks, folks. It's almost always too hot, too cold, too buggy, windy, raining, etc. There's a reason why we have homes with AC, central heat, bug screens, bug spray, running water, nuke ovens, refrig, etc. :-) The great outdoors is not great, when you are stuck out in it, especially if you have lacked the money/knowledge to be properly skilled equipped.
  10. no, there aint. if there's culverts, phone or powerlines, road, etc, it aint wilderness.
  11. onetime

    Improvised Weapons

    I once had an SIS lieutenant refuse to give back my Dean Grennel .45 book, which had survived multiple seizures in the past, cause it had a diagram of 1911 parts. So I asked her, "If I told you how I could make a deadly projectile weapon, out of stuff you by LAW MUST give me, can I have my book back? She said, "How would you do that. ? I said, rollup some newspaper around a pencil to form the tube of the blowgun, then bust a splinter off of a board, tree, etc. or use a staple or paperclip as my dart-point. Use toothpaste or jelly to stick a wad of tp onto the back of the dart body. Use a concrete corner to notch the dart tip, so that it breaks off when the dart body is pulled-on. Dip the dart tip in excrement or best of all,AIDS blood" She said, "Take your book and get out of here, and I better NOT hear about anyone getting shot with blowgun dart". :-)
  12. always, forever, everywhere, everything, everybody, the problem is money. If you have enough money, you can BUY time. If you dont have to work, you have time to prep. If you REALLy have money, you can pay somebody to do most of your prepping for you and you can pay people to teach you and force you get fit, etc.
  13. onetime

    Post Pics of your EDC

    this entire "rotation" idea is stupid. You'll be reaching to the wrong place, grabbing the wrong thing, when under stress. Cops should not be wearing their taser for a right handed draw, but instead require that draw to be left handed. OK had a case where a cop meant to draw his taser and zap a downed, held (several cops) but resisting perp. Instead, the cop shot him dead. When your life is saved or lost in the next half second, dont have any question, subconscious or not, where you're going to reach, what you're going to grab, how it works or what you're going to do with it. Several times in my life, my gun felt like it "grew out of my wrist", magically. I didn't at all remember the draw. The speed and surprise prevented my having to fire. If you hit somebody with a bullet, especially a woman or minority youth, it's going to cost you $50,000-1/2 million $ to stay out of prison and "un-sued". So dont be so slow that the perp has no time to see your gun and stop his attack. Most attacks are not made with a gun. So theres often 1/2 second or so "in the mix" that will allow for a REALLY fast draw to change his mind!
  14. about 20 states wont let you have a silencer, and the Feds get a $200 tax and a background check on you in the other 30 states. Or you'll be looking at a 10 year stay in prison, for EACH silencer that you make, and each rifle whose barrel you shorten below 16". and each full auto that you create. Once shtf, tho, no law will mean anything. You can get nearly all of the work done, scatter/bury the parts and materials, and if any of them are found, it wont mean a thing, legally. best not bury on your property, tho, or leave any prints on anything. A threaded barrel is not illegal. a tube with a plug welded into it is not illegal (as long as it's not threaded) It's not illegal to have screenwire, or a baffle forming kit, neoprene orrubber and steel washers for making the compartmentalizing parts, nor the kid's pointed paper scissors for cutting the screen wire. The rear half of the can gets too much heat and blast for aluminum screen to withstand, and the copper screen has to be annealed before it will take and retain the formed shape of the baffle. This annealing is easily done on a gas kitchen stove, or with a propane torch. there is no need for the sleeve-tube on a .22lr "can". The area of the hi-v rifle can with the freeze plug stack in it, has to have holes drilled into the sides of the baffle tube, so that the hot gases can be vented. a well fit plastic tube, slid down inside of the baffle tube, will hide those vent holes from the welder. Just on general principle, when I'm making a working model of my "patented" idea, I use several shops, to make one piece each, and I dont park where any of them might see my license plate
  15. instead, just get the "how to make a silencer" series of books from Paladin Press and Amazon (cheaper) There's one for .22lr, Mini14m and the .45 ACP 1911. Start with the .22. Once you truly understand how to make the baffles, weld in and thread the rear end-plug, make the baffle forming kit, and how to have several shops do the work for you (without knowing what it is) and half a day of your own labor, you'll have one everty bit as good as the $1000 ones that are for sale. What you do is have a piece of tubing 6 ft long, and have a plug welded into either end. Nobody would think that you're going to cut 8" off of each end. :-) The .22 can may be made of PVC pipe, no welder or lathe is required. the internal threading of the barrel is a very clever answer to the mounting problem. Once you understand the process, you can make a beautifully efficent baffle in 2 minutes. The .22lr baffle takes half that long. The rear half of the baffle stack must be made of annealed copper screen wire, the front half can be made of the far more commonly found, cheaper aluminum screen. The hi-v rifle can must have a "sleeve" tube mounted around the baffle tube. the rear 1/3rd of the baffle tube has to be stuffed with freeze plugs. that part of the baffle tube has to have holes drilled into the side of it, venting the hot gases into the "sleeve area" between the 2 long tubes. The sleeve area is filled with a wrap of copper screen wire, so as to soak up the heat energy of the gases. YOu can weld a washer into either end of the sleeve area, or you can render this area accessible with thick washer, a couple of o rings (and matching grooves in the washer and the baffle tube) and hold in that thick washer with an internal snapring. The front baffle in the main tube is held in by a washer and a snapring, too. The main baffles are made of rectangles of single thickness screenwire (about 3"x6" for the .22lr) fold them into 1/3rd wide strips, lengthwise, Spindle them on a rod that's .026" larger in OD than your bullet. (22lr) and more like .080" larger than your 223 or other hi-v rifle bullet. The screen is then crushed by a mallet blow, between the "piston of the baffle-forming kit, and the washer that is pinned across the head of your shaping rod, all done inside of the "'cylinder" (a 4" long hunk of the same size tubing as your baffle-tube.) make a baffle, remove it from the cylinder and stack it in the baffle tube. repeat until the tube is full, install the front washer and snapring. for the hi-v rifle, you have to swage open the freeze plugs, so that they have a tight fit inside of the tube. If you do not do this, the hammer blows of shots will compress the screenwire "donut" baffles and then you'll have your freeze plugs sliding around making noise each time you raise or lower the gun.
  16. lead has very little in the way of a cutting edge. Getting a hit with an arrow is just the start. If you dont cause massive hemorrhaging in just a few minutes, your deer is going to be in the next county and by the time he dies, the coyotes and dogs will have peed alll over him. melting lead over a fire takes a Dakota pit, lined with big stones, charcoal, and a way to fan the flames. Either that, or you'll need 2 ft long handles on your mould and your pouring ladle. Cause getting that close to that big a fire will fry your face.
  17. no kidding? you think anyone will have any choice? If you need stuff that you aint GOT, what else can you do, post shtf?
  18. anywhere but TX, he'd have been in prison, but he did the right thing. Pos's would be alive if they weren't stealing.
  19. now I only bother to own 3. An alloy framed, Commander sized variant of a Filipino 1911 9mm, a kimber Micro9, and a shorty AR15 in .223, each with a .22lr conversion unit. Anything that I can't do with one of these 3, doesn't need doing (with a gun). Traps, snares, trotlines, bird lime on roosts, and nets are many, many times more efficent ways of gathering flesh food. My 45 gr 9mm loads, at 2300 fps from the Commander, offer 500 ft lbs of power, with Makarov type recoil. If 4 hits in the first half second, using those loads, doesn't suffice, a 12 ga blast would not have sufficed either. About 1-2 guys in 100 don't stop from any sort of hit to the torso. you have to be ready to brain them if needed, and realize that nothing is perfect.
  20. trump's win was the biggest miracle in my 60 odd years. His cabinet picks make me think that he MEANS to do exactly what he's said that he'll do, which will be just great! After we get rid of 30 million illegals and require national voter-ID, we'll be able to get rid of all the bs gun laws.
  21. onetime

    50 BMG handgun.....My wrist hurts.

    your head and wallet should be hurting, cause you're dumb as a rock. the 460 Rowland is more than enough, if you load it right, it's every bit as much gun as a .44 of the same size, cause the auto has another inch of barrel length for the same OAL of the gun.
  22. onetime

    Four Tools for Survival

    I"d take my 2 qt canteen cup lid, haftable as a machete. My small visegrip with a couple of Silky saw blades( wood) and a couple of Dewalt sawsall metal cutting blades. My leatherman Signal, and my chisel hawk. The latter is made from a cold chisel, with a welded on hilt that lets me haft it in just a few seconds. It's got a screwdiver/chisel hilt, that's threaded for a wingnut. Drive the hilt thru a 1 1/4" hunk of sapling or limb and the hawk is ready. The can opener of the Signal is altered to be a scoop-hook knife. It has an awl, a short saw blade and the flat screwdriver can be sharpened for use as a chisel. It's also got a knife sharpener and a ferrro rod, as does the canteen cup (as hingepins for the lid). I also carry a short 3 cornered file for use with the vise-grip. Carrying big blades is legal trouble in many areas. The cold chisel-hawk, used with a baton, can cut fences, hinges, hasps, bolts, nuts, etc. It can cut mortises and similar wood-chisel type work, too. It's a bit too narrow for ease of use/safety for using in "limbing", so if much of that is required, it will be time to haft the cup-lid. The cup-lid, until sharpened, will pass thru any sort of customs-search. :-)
  23. its never been a fight. I just hit them and it was over. I've been hurt a lot worse and 100x as often when sparring, for a fact, and hurt people very nearly as bad, with no intent to do so.
  24. onetime

    Guide To Basic Unarmed Combat

    As an MP, I was taught to have the gun in your strong hand, your stick in the other hand and to take no crap at all, from anybody. Watch your buddy's back, cause he'll be watching yours. never hit the head, try to only hit side of knee or down the shin, the military needs its manpower. If necessary, strike the forearm, elbow, or collarbone. Dont permanently injure anyone if you can help it. VA hates paying disability to a-holes for the rest of their lives.
  25. onetime

    old idea, modern use

    long ago and far away, a guy I knew made his own smgs, using 3" chunks of uzi barrel, M16 pistol grips and Sten mags. He put silencers on them and said that a 6-7 rd burst would stay on a man's torso at 25m. Rate of firing was about 10 shots per second. He used a 2 diameter chamber and they would feed empty cases. The bolt was 3 pcs. A hunk of 7/8" drill rod, threaded into a hunk of cold rolled rod that was welded into some thick walled, 1 3/8" OD steel tubing. the tubing's rear end was filled with lead, to make the cyclic rate slow and keep the bolt and receiver as short as possible (still 14", barrel and all). He said that if he had to do it over again, he'd use rectangular tubing and a pair of captive, hardware store springs on guide rods thru the bolt's main body. It was expensive to have some recoil springs that he'd had custom-wound for those receivers. the breechface and firing pin were just machined into the front of the bolt, and then case-hardened with Casenite powder and the torch. The ejector was just welded into a slot cut in the receiver. He said that if he were to do it again, he'd silver braze a "stop-block" into the receiver, positioned to "catch" the main body of the bolt just as the front of the bolt would hit the back of the barrel, if the bolt were dropped on an empty chamber. Having dufuses do this soon distorted the breechface, you see. The "safety" was just a "j-slot" for the bolt-handle to run in. Pull the bolt back off of the sear-trip, rotate it until the bolt handle was caught in the 'j" and that was your safety. :-) There was no semi-auto feature, just rock and roll. He made protected sights for them, along with folding buttstocks, but none of his buyers were interested in those modifications. It was all-about hip-shooting.