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About BobS

  • Rank
    Junior Member


  • Location
    Center of the automotive world
  • Interests
    building specific purpose vehicles, camping, long range shooting
  • Occupation
    Offroad and military design and development engineer
  1. BobS


    To the OP that asked the differance between the M1028 and M1008 GM CUCVs: Axles, lockers (replace limited slip and front added), revised frame material, revised body elpo coat. Some other minor details, but the reason was to modify the M1008 into a shelter carrier. We disallowed that on the M1008. Yes, I was "aquainted" with them (The entire CUCV series from GM) as I was the lead design engineer for GM/MVO during the development.
  2. BobS

    Keeping Your BOV Ready TO Roll

    There are several pieces of information on standards used for testing operational parameters, but I am nitpicking, as I have seen and commented on that test and results obtained for two engine companies. Yes, to be fair, I was paid for my review of the study. To cut to the short form answer, the test was specific in it's effect study, procedure, and produced valid results. The missing information in that 14 page thread was of no real interest to non-engineers or non-engine manufacturers. Discounting the idiocy displayed by many of those posts, the test was both important for it's results as well as conclusions. Thankyou for referencing that information, as usually such a study is too technically oriented for the avarage person to evaluate from hearsay. Short answer....ya done good Partsman.
  3. BobS

    Keeping Your BOV Ready TO Roll

    BTW-what part of my comment about my background was not clear-after 37 years of designing, building, testing, and developing military and civilian wheeled vehicles, I know who does what to whom and how often in this business. Please do not assume there aren't people that are not as limited in this area as many "mechanics". My own limitations are in personal mobility requirements for bipeds. In other words, I damn near cannot walk anymore due to blown out knees from a juvenile belief in the infalibility of a parachute to open on command properly. LOL
  4. BobS

    Keeping Your BOV Ready TO Roll

    ....and do you understand the different grades of stainless and the corrosion effects on each? As an analogy, you have just claimed that a .22 LR equals a .45 ACP JHP because both bullets contain lead.
  5. BobS

    Keeping Your BOV Ready TO Roll

    awake, that "less restrictive" exhaust will now allow your engine to run dirtier (the cat will take longer to heat up), will destroy the cat faster (due to the incomplete sulphur dioxide removal/conversion and plugging by carbon compounds), will corrode the system aft of the cat faster (due to higher sulphuric acid content when warming up), and, depending on your state, will earn you a fine for failure to pass emissions tests now. It will take a while, but converting an engine from a 150,000 mile durability to under 100,000 means that exhaust system just cost you one third (or more) of you expected engine life. Can you afford that?
  6. BobS

    Keeping Your BOV Ready TO Roll

    Actually Partsman, the answer is no on both your noise and emissions points. I have run the certifications for Honda, Ford, Chrysler, and Toyota over the years for both NHTSA, EPA, JIS, and other govt agencies around the world, in addition to designing these systems for OEMs on both commercial and military vehicles for the last 35 years plus. No system has ever been certified (just little things like SAE standardized procedures trip up the trinkets and trash aftermarket industry) to surpass OEM systems because they don't work without hurting durability over the OEM systems.
  7. BobS

    Keeping Your BOV Ready TO Roll

    Let's take a short look at air filters and exhaust systems, since they have been mentioned... There are people that say "oh yeah, just get a cold air intake system" which is fine, IF you know what a "kit" is designed for... ...usually separating a "less than knowledgeable" person from his or her hard earned cash. In MOST of those kits, they do nothing but allow MORE dirt into the engine, because, to "flow more air", these filters have BIGGER HOLES to allow more are to pass, and these holes allow bigger chunks of dirt past, causing excessive wear on valve seats, rings, and other parts. The common claim of "more horsepower" and "greater fuel economy" is also a lie. Use the intelligence God has given and THINK about this-if this garbage was such a good idea, don't you think that we would use them in new cars as an OEM? On the other side of the engine, low backpressure in an exhaust system can also cause failures, due to clogging of catalytic converters not heating up to destroy the particulate matter.
  8. There are several advantages to diesel, some of which have been mentioned. In general, what you do NOT want to do is just dump any cooking oil, used motor oil, transmission oil, gear oil, salad oil, or alcohol into the fuel tank. You MIGHT get away with that a few times, but eventually, you will clog the fuel filter, destroy the lift pump, clog and wear the injection pump (especially anything with a Stanadyne or RoosaMaster injection pump) and finally destroy the injectors and carbon the hell out of the combustion chamber and lubricating oil for the engine. The engine doesn't know any different and WILL run on these fuel oils, al the while, disassembling itself in new and varied ways-some kinetic and energetic. On the positive side, maintenance is generally less, as there is less to go wrong with a diesel engine, especially the old GM 6.2 v8, the Ford/Navistar 6.3/7.2 v8, and the Dodge/Cummins 5.9 I6. Parts are easily available and cheap-depending on what you are servicing, and are built to commercial standards, in the case of the Cummins and Navistar engines. Ask if you have more questions.
  9. Weapons and Defensive Measures-Most people think immediately of firearms and ammo here, but I am using the term a bit more broadly in this instance. "Weapons" are being referred to as not only firearms and ammo, but also, tools that can be used to affect the attainment of an objective, independent of the type of vehicle-think about a sheepherder's jack for example ( Not only is it used as a tire changing tool, it can also double as a manual winch, a club, a tool to bend sheetmetal out of the way if you crash your vehicle, and other somewhat esoteric uses. "Defensive" is used to mean things that may or may not be needed, but if you have them, and a breakdown occurs (not just of the vehicle, but of the travel in general), you can use the tool to keep on going. Many vehicles among preppers have a bugout bag as part of the normal carry equipment....I do myself and right now, my job is only 15 minutes from my home (my last consulting job was 350 miles away a few weeks ago). The point is to make out a list of what you would need to keep moving in the vehicle, short of a complete and massive failure of the vehicle (i.e. blowing up the engine, for example-anything else could be repaired, potentially). See for an article on preparing a Blazer K5 for heavy trail use. FYI- you would be looking at over 750 pounds of "Stuff" to copy that. I am going to try to explain how you can determine what YOU need shortly.
  10. SIDEBAR- No problem. Like I said in my original introduction thread, I have been doing this kind of thing for years and it has come time to try to help others gain from all my screwups in my career....LOL.
  11. SIDEBAR-LOL!! I ain't "sir"-that is my dad. (Yes, he is still alive and as ornery as ever at 92). Just "Bob" is fine.
  12. SIDEBAR-THANK YOU!! I hope it continues. That was one of the things that made me register to post here. My experience on several other boards has made me very wary, as, when people have their particular ox gored, they tend to get "fiesty", at the least and has caused me to withdraw from most other boards I have posted on over the years. People's preconception is hard to change. All I ask is an open mind and to ask questions if someone doesn"t understand what I am talking about or why I say something....LOL.
  13. First thoughts- In this section you need to examine the "what" of what you have to move. Without knowing the gross "package size" (this is the gross measurements of every package, box, bag, crate, and can you are putting into the vehicle, regardless of contents-meaning at htis point it doesn't matter if you are packing people, food, weapons, ammo, first aid, or fuel into-you need to know how big it all totals up to be and how much it all weighs). For an example package, let's assume that you have 4 people to move (2 average adults meeting the SAE "avarage" parameters or 150 pound 5'-10" male, 125 pound 5'-4" female, and 2 children of 75 pounds and 4'0") with a total weight of 425 pounds and a package size of 48 cubic feet. Additionally, you have to feed these people for some period of time during a trip-let's assume 4 days at 2100 calories per day, plug 4 gallons of water per day for each. This gives you 8400 calories of food and 16 gallons (actually 20 gallons for these calculations for simplicity) of potable water for use. The weight here is a bit more difficult to calculate-you need to do some research to come up with accurate numbers. For simplicities sake, we will assume you are going to use plastic Sceptre cans of 20L capacity for water and MRE's for food. Sceptre cans are ( 18.5"x14"x6.7" and weigh 5 pounds for each empty can. This gives you a total of "cube" (packaging size) of just over 1.0 cubic feet per can, or a total of 4.1 cubic feet total, and when filled with water (20 gallons here- to fill each can full) the total weight of the water is 166.9 pounds, plus the cans gives you a total of 206.9 pounds to pack in ( the vehicle. MRE's vary in nutritional value, but for the purposes of this discussion, I will assume 1000 calories for each meal package ( & and the size for a case of 12 meals is 15.5"x9.1"x9.6" or approximately 3.1 cubic feet per case. Since we are assuming 4 people for 4 days, the total cases is 4 that we need, or a "cube" of 12.4 CF weighing (15.4 pounds each case) 61.6 pounds of food. So far, we have determined that whatever vehicle is chosen, we need to have a total (so far) of 64.5 cubic feet of space for packaging and a weight capacity of 693.5 pounds. So far, so we need to look at weapons and defensive measures for the vehicle.
  14. SIDEBAR- I generally put minimally on topic comments and opinions as a sidebar to the main post, such as this. I will answer any questions to help people understand, but I do not engage in pissing contests. I state what the facts are in a case, then let the reader decide what is applicable to their situation.
  15. In response to comments, I am writing this brief post about the what and why of a BOV and what to look for (or not look for). In the military procurment of vehicles, you have 2 basic classifications-COMBAT and TACTICAL. These two definitions are NOT compatible with each other as they serve totally different masters, so to speak. For the time being, I am going to ignore the COMBAT vehicle as they are not applicable to any type of BOV situation, by conceding military vehicle's definition. The TACTICAL vehicle is a wheeled or tracked vehicle that serves as a battlefield taxi, of sorts, to get troops from one post to another, to replenish supplies, to evacuate wounded, and to serve as C4I vehicles. In more simple terms, a tactical vehicle is defensive in nature, and not offencive, as is its counterpart, the COMBAT vehicle. What makes the tactical vehicle unique in application is it's ability to follow from point to point, the combat vehicles, without being intended to survive attack, nor provide cover for troops inside. Regardless of armoring, weaponry, and other esoteric doodads and geegaws, the tactical vehicle is simply transport to go from one place to another and move "stuff" with a reasonable certainty of mission success. What all this means is you have a vehicle that must move it's payload of "X" pounds, across distance "Y", over the intervening terrain. The military has a specific set of requirements that define the operating parameters of the vehicles (and no, these requirements are not all the same for every vehicle). This is the subject of this post thread. I will split this up into multiple posts to keep the related ideas and comments seperate from each other-in order to keep discussion centered on each post. If anyone has any questions, please feel free toask and I will do my damn best to answer satisfactorially. Be aware however, I do not pull any punches-i am not a politically correct writer and I call spades, spades. Any questions so far?? Best regards, Bob